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Thread: First Stunt Saber

  1. #1

    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    3

    Default First Stunt Saber

    I'm looking to make my first stunt saber, and have a general idea of how everything works. I just want to make sure I haven't missed anything necessary.

    I'm going to purchase the parts so they are already set up with the JST connectors. I know it's a little extra money, but I've not done any soldering before and want to keep this as simple as possible just starting out for the most part.

    MWS Short Momentary 16mm AV Switch - Nickel
    MWS Momentary to Latching Converter
    Cree Star LED & MHSV1 Heatsink Module

    Beyond those pieces there, I need to pick out a battery setup but I'm not entirely sure what to do about that. I'm looking for suggestions since I'm not entirely sure about the spacing to cram everything in.

    I'm still toying around with the hilt, blade holder, and pommel after I realized the initial mockup I made in builder had some parts that are currently out of stock. I might use a choke or extension, once I figure out what parts I'm going to go with for sure.

    The initial build I did consisted of:

    MHSV1 Blade Holder Style 12
    MHS choke style 2
    Hilt style 2
    MPS Pommel style 8
    MPS Clip
    MPS insert style 12
    Trim Ring 2
    LED "Corbin style" Show blade 1" OD (36 inches, quad wrapped, bullet shaped)
    8-32 x 1/2" thumb screw
    Drill & Tap Hole (8-32)
    Machine recessed 16mm AV switch hole

    I guess to make it simple my questions are:

    Do I have all the necessary wiring components to assemble?
    What type of battery setup would be recommended for this? (I don't plan on adding sound or anything else to this specific one down the road.)
    Will the momentary switch will work as intended for a light control?
    Do I want to go with a recessed hole for the switch or just a standard 16mm AV switch hole? (Not sure if that's just a matter of preference.)

    Any other suggestions or recommendations are greatly appreciated too. Thanks!

  2. #2

    Default

    You need a resistor or Buckpuck for your LED, and I personally would go with the V3 Heatsink. A buckpuck would provide more consistent color over battery life, but requires a larger battery. If you are thinking of upgrading later I would look into rechargeable batteries, and maybe do a chassis to hold everything in place.

  3. #3

    Default

    Make sure you get the right switch converter for the battery voltage you plan on using.

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    United States
    Posts
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Taki117 View Post
    You need a resistor or Buckpuck for your LED, and I personally would go with the V3 Heatsink. A buckpuck would provide more consistent color over battery life, but requires a larger battery. If you are thinking of upgrading later I would look into rechargeable batteries, and maybe do a chassis to hold everything in place.
    Thanks! I completely missed including the buckpuck. The heatsink module does come with the V3 heatsink as part of it. I started looking at chassis components earlier because that was another thing that hadn't even crossed my mind.

    If I am going to run the buckpuck, how large of a batter should I be looking into?

  5. #5

    Default

    Buckpucks require a minimum of 5V. Most people recommend 7.4V Li-Ion packs for them.

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    United States
    Posts
    3

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Thalan the Exiled View Post
    Make sure you get the right switch converter for the battery voltage you plan on using.
    Thanks! I'll keep that in mind.

    Quote Originally Posted by Miraluka View Post
    Buckpucks require a minimum of 5V. Most people recommend 7.4V Li-Ion packs for them.
    Perfect. Thank you! I'll start looking at some of those then.

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