Upgrading basic lightsabers in the future

[JeedaiJohnny]

I've thought that too. I just rather be safe than sorry is all. I'm nervous enough doing this for the first time. Last thing I need is accidentally shorting out the board completely because of static... and spending three days trying to figure out just what I wired wrong! I think it would be easier, and a little less stressful, to find one that is ESD safe so I can remove that worry altogether

[Silver Serpent]

Be prepared to spend a little more money. I'm partial to Weller brand soldering irons. I hear good things about Hakko, and they're a bit cheaper than Weller.

Get the brass sponge thingy for wiping the iron tip. Trust me. It's much MUCH better than the wet sponge method.

[JakeSoft]

It's certainly possible to use a standard soldering iron. Just take precautions, be sure you're grounded, don't wear wool and shuffle around, and you can get by.

SS speaks truth. I built several sabers and even my own sound board out of an Arduino with standard 15W to 35W irons from Radio Shack and Sears. You'll be fine as long as you're careful.

[WookieeGunner]

One question I have is why do you want to learn soldering on your first saber? Tim sells his MWS line that already has everything soldered and just uses connectors to attach stuff. That will give you a fully working saber without learning to solder. Then if you decide you want to make a second one, you have the first one to reference for things like "Does my solder joint look ok?"

If you do want to go the route of soldering, it looks like Canada and the USA use the same outlets (three prongs, two slot style and one round style). I would start by looking at the irons that plug into all three holes. ESD safe means that it can discharge to ground which requires the round hole in the outlet.

[Bark]

Hakko is good. I bought these items online and have nothing but good things to say:

1. Hakko Digital FX888D & CHP170 bundle - Temperature control is not intuitive, but it's a champ otherwise.
2. MG Chemicals 4890 Series Sn60/Pb40 Rosin Core Leaded Solder, 0.032" Diameter, 1 lbs Spool - Wash your hands after using! Don't ingest the lead! Don't feed lead to anyone! Don't breathe in the fumes! ... That should cover that.
3. Hakko T18-I - T18 Series Soldering Tip for Hakko FX-888/FX-8801 - Conical - Sharp - R0.2 mm x 14.5 mm - I used this tip for the boards. For the wires, I just used the other one that came with the iron.
4. Chemtronics Desoldering Braid, Chem-Wik, Rosin, 10-50L 0.10", 50ft. - I haven't needed to use it yet, thankfully.

[JeedaiJohnny]

Be prepared to spend a little more money. I'm partial to Weller brand soldering irons. I hear good things about Hakko, and they're a bit cheaper than Weller.

Get the brass sponge thingy for wiping the iron tip. Trust me. It's much MUCH better than the wet sponge method.

I was thinking of going with Weller. That seemed to be a good one to go with. More money, but good product.

One question I have is why do you want to learn soldering on your first saber? Tim sells his MWS line that already has everything soldered and just uses connectors to attach stuff. That will give you a fully working saber without learning to solder. Then if you decide you want to make a second one, you have the first one to reference for things like "Does my solder joint look ok?"

For a couple reasons really. For one, the feeling of accomplishing it myself. Actually learning how to do it, and completing it properly. It's a pretty big deal to me.
Secondly, and this one is the one that will make more sense, I learn best when I'm showed how to. Just having a diagram or a completed board in front of me is good and helpful... but not the best way for me to learn.
So in this case, when I build the saber, I'm going to have the manual for the NB, the forums open, and Madcow's "how to build a basic saber with sound" videos up and running. That way I have someone "showing" me how to do it as I go. Plus it'll help that I can pause my teacher so that I can go at my own pace LOL.

[bigkevin61]

Unfortunately I have never soldered anything.. but that's not stopping me for believing I can learn and do it.

Erv from Plecter Labs (the guy who makes the NB, PC & CF sound cards) also has a good video on soldering.

I started with ZERO soldering experience, but with a bit of practice (Just had the "pencil" iron, no station to start), you can pick it up pretty quick, with enough skill to get by (Just be careful of "cold joints!").
My Avatar picture was my first "Official" Soldering Project. Some LEDs, resistors and a Battery Holder from Radio Shack to get the TARDIS to light up.

As it was said before, Soldering the Sound Card is more difficult (then all but MAYBE the main LED, depending on which you get).

Look at the products offered in the "MWS" (Modular Wiring System) if you want to keep soldering to a minimum. I was playing around, and for a "simple" saber (NB, Single Die Main LED, without FOC), you can "plug & play" everything (including a AV Switch with an LED) with ONLY having to solder in a resistor. And two joints with just a resistor and wire (don't forget the heat shrink) can be done with the simplest of irons and minimal experience.

[JediCarpet]

Hey Jeedai, my fellow Canuck

I went through a quick evolution with mine. I started my first one with a NB 2 with the lithium battery and the recharge port, and put a Rebel on it, then about two hours later upgraded to a Tri-Rebel, and a few weeks later added the FoC. And I hadn't soldered anything in my life (successfully) before that. I'm not going to say my work was perfect, but if you're technically adept, have some measure of dexterity, and can read and double/triple check a document against your work, you can do this. Erv has done a great job making it easy to use his products (read the manual!! Read it, love it, become one with it. It will help you.), and there are a lot of great, helpful people around here. I have to say there are some design considerations that I need to rebuild it with, but I made a functional lightsaber without any wiring errors on the first try by using the "measure twice, cut once" rule, if you will. Be methodical and precise and you'll probably come out of it thinking that it was a lot easier than you thought it would be. I did. I just finished my third one and am planning my fourth, which will be a much more complicated one. (Can't wait to experiment with the Prism and a colour changing crystal chamber...) The third one I made I had the electronics figured out months in advance (used an old Kenner sound board, had to wait for the hilt to arrive) and just had to put it together. Now I have to find a friend who can do custom machining for me, or someone with a 3D printer that can do metal...

"For one, the feeling of accomplishing it myself. Actually learning how to do it, and completing it properly. It's a pretty big deal to me. " <-- that's what it was for me too. You don't get to become a real Jedi without going through some hard work

A few useful tips on soldering:
1) Get the little spare hand thing with alligator clips on it to hold your work, and line the teeth with electrical tape so they don't damage anything. Use one clip for the card, one to hold the wire you're going to solder. This makes it so that all you have to worry about is the iron and the solder. Don't do what I was doing last night trying to hold the wire with your teeth and...yeah... Or soldering drunk. Trust me, stay off the Scotch. Especially if you plan on using a dremmel to cut your blade length down afterwards.
2) Find nice, thin solder. The one I found at Sayal (not sure if one is in your area, I found one in Burlington, ON) is a 8" tube with it coiled inside, and it's like holding a thick primary school pencil with a wire sticking out the end.
3) Heat the wire/board, not the solder, then touch the solder to the wire/board. It'll melt when the wire is hot enough and just suck itself into where it's supposed to be. But don't burn the board by holding it there too long.
4) Watch some good videos (sounds like you're doing that already) or find a friend to teach you.
5) Plan plan plan plan. You can't prepare enough.

[TwinMill]

Has anyone else addressed the switch question yet? I've just kinda been skimming thru the thread.
If not, here's my $0.02... Each type of switch sold here has it's own unique kind of hole that needs
to be drilled. Starting with one type of switch, and moving to an AV later might be somewhat
problematic.

Then again, if you start with a smaller type of switch, and have a good drill press that you are
comfortable using, it might not be too difficult expanding the hole with a 16mm bit.

Perhaps someone here with more saber building experience could expand on my thoughts a bit?

At any rate, good luck with your build. Hope you post some pics here when it's done.

[JeedaiJohnny]

Ahh more responses! I love this community

Kevin, I've definitely watched some videos by Erv as well. Who better right? lol

Jedicarpet; it's awesome to hear that someone with little to no experience can have a successful first shot . That's definitely encouraging. I do realize that the sound board will be the biggest challenge that I face. I've read the NBv2 manual about four times over!
I've been all over my city looking at soldering irons, and I can't find helping hands to save my life >:[. Nice to hear of a place you recommend in Burlington though, it may be worth a quick drive down there . It's not far

TwinMill; I do know the issue of deciding between switches and the importance of the hole. I'm actually a little glad that the body I want is out of stock right now because it gives me a little more time to decide if I want to cut back, or go all out. Either that or I order two bodies, each with a different switch hole drilled in hahaha