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Thread: Another newbie Part list to check :)

  1. #1

    Default Another newbie Part list to check :)

    Hi everyone!

    I finally succombed to my deepest desires and decided to build a lightsaber. This is of course a first and since it's for my girlfriends birthday I wanna make it right. So I chose a design using the wonderful MHS builder and picked up some other parts in the store to make my list.

    pic: SaberBuilder_render.jpg

    So here is my current list:

    Blade:
    - LED 32" battle blade Corbin style (all done) with double wrap

    Hilt:
    - LED blade holder style 22
    - Extantion Blank Style 3
    - ribbed extention v grooved (with powder coating)
    - 1.2" Double female
    - 3v2 pommel and style 6 insert.

    Electronics:
    - Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module (Amber: 3.2 V and 700mA)
    - NBv2 sound module
    - Premium 28mm Speaker
    - Speaker mount v5
    - MWS Short Momentary 16mm AV Switch - Black (Orange ring) all done with the dynaOhm and JST extention i believe

    And this is where it gets tricky: Since I'm in France i cant get the LI-Ion delivered here. The question is should i try to get some (with wires and protection all done) locally or should i go for 4 AA batteries using the speakers + 4AA box in the store? (apparently 4AA are not best suited for the NB). I believe this box takes some space and my saber is a bit short (my gf is short so... figured ^_^).

    My second question is about the LED resistor. with 3.7V Li-Ion and the rebel specifications i should get a resistor of R = (3.7 - 3.2) / 0.7 = 0.714 ohm and P = (3.7-3.2) * 0.7 = 0.35 W. The closest one in the store is 1 ohm and 2W. Should I get it or since the values are low can i go without a resistor?

    I would like do less soldering as possible, and would like to know if the NB header with wiring harness is good for that.

    I might get some Chassis but dont know which are better (grafflex or MHS)

    And finally, I would like to add a recharge pad but I'm not really sure how that works, do I just need a power jack that i add to the circuit and a kill key (and btw whats the difference between classic and switchcraft power jack since classic is currently oos)

    You guys are probably tired of reading newbies list, but I just wanna thank you in advance because it really helps!

    Cheers!

  2. #2

    Default

    Well, i can help with the power supply question. You'll want to find a lithium ion pack locally, from what I've been reading regular alkaline batteries die fairly quickly in a saber. The pommel insert you have listed can hold a recharge port, I think it's designed to. (2.1mm power jack). And how are you planning on holding this saber to a belt. You'll need either a d-link or a convertec clip. You'll also need a momentary switch for activating the saber.
    Last edited by RavenXp; 05-18-2014 at 03:48 AM.

  3. #3

    Default

    You'll need the MPS clip to hold your pommel insert in place. http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MPS-Clip-P72.aspx

    Definitely try to find a local provider for li-ion batteries. A single 3.7v li-ion is ideal for your setup. 4xAA alkalines provide 6v, and you'll damage the Nano Biscotte board with that. You *can* use 4 NiMH, but it's less runtime and more space taken up in the hilt. See p. 10 of the NB manual for instructions to use NiMH if you choose to do so.

    Use the resistor. a 1 ohm 1 watt is fine, the 2 watt version will work just as well. The warm colored Rebels (red, amber, orange, deep red) should always have a resistor, since they're less tolerant of overdriving.

    The header is nice. You may be able to get the NB header soldered on for you, just shoot an email to the store first.

    MHS chassis parts are used with MHS sabers. The Graflex chassis parts have a different diameter so that they fit in original or replica Graflex flash-based sabers.

    Page 8 of the NB manual shows how to hook up a recharge port. The black wire runs back to your battery negative. The green wire goes to the board negative. The red wire is common positive for the board and your battery. The switchcraft power jack is a higher quality recharge port. Since recharge ports are one of the more easily damaged components, Tim sourced a higher quality port for sabersmiths to use.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  4. #4

    Default

    Ok Thanks guys, i ordered all the parts now that I have all the information i needed. Only have to wait now

    I'll post some pictures once its done. Thanks again!

  5. #5

    Default

    If you're looking for 18650 li-ions, you can go to a local Batteries Plus and ask for the old laptop battery packs - they're free. Just say it's a science experiment or something if they ask. Cut it open and you'll find anywhere from 6-10 batts. usually half of them or less are bad (output 0 volts), but I've always been able to get a few good ones out. The only caution on this method is that they do NOT have the over/undercharge protection IC... but if you have a smart charger, it won't overcharge. I use these for EVERYTHING.

    If you want IC protection, the ones on the store are good.
    If you need higher capacitance and higher output, there are 4000mAh and 5000mAh li-ions on tmart.com very cheap.

    EDIT: Just realized you're in France... I'm not sure if they have a Batteries Plus... any store that takes laptop batteries for recycling should have them.
    Last edited by Dethlore; 05-21-2014 at 07:49 AM. Reason: Location dependent

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