Finally worked up the nerve to make my own saber and step into a larger world, diving feet first. After a great deal of research and being pointed in the right direction (Kudos to SilverSerpent for his undying patience) and some mill work/powdercoating (compliments to Tim for checking what I wanted done), I will have the parts I need to begin in about a couple of weeks once they arrive and I will bring this saber to life! I have, however, made a change or two for my part list for this thing:
SaberBuilder_render4.jpg
- Hilt style 2 with standard style switch hole
- MHS choke style 1 short
- Screw on LED blade holder style 17
- MPS Pommel style 10
- MHS Extension Blank Style 3
- Activation box style 9
- 2.1mm Power Jack
- Machined button for Covertec clip
- Main Body Powder Coating (Wet Black) (SH23)
- Choke Powder Coating (Wet Black) (C1S3)
- Extension Powder Coating (Wet Black) (EB31)
- Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module
- 16mm Anti Vandal Momentary Nickel Plated Switch
- MWS Pre-Wired Nano Biscotte Sound Module
- JST connectors + JST Extensions
- 4-40 Button Head (for the Activation Box)
- 8-32 x 1/4" socket head (for covertec button)
- Premium Speaker
- 2.1mm plug adapter for smart charger
- Kill plug style 2
- MHS speaker mount V4
- LED "Corbin style" Battle blade 1" OD (32 inches)
- 8-32 x 1/2" thumb screw (for the Blade Holder)
- 18650 2600mAh Li-Ion Battery (3.7v) (my friend is looking into buying it from one of the electronics shops he deals with, though I can have one made if need be)
I contemplated doing just an LED saber, but my brother wants a saber he can call his own for christmas, with a Petit Crouton no less, so after reading up as much as I could I resolved to build a saber with sound using the prewired NB and work from there. if I can do that, than I should be able to tackle a PC saber without much fuss.
Just to be safe however, I looked up and saved a few pictures showing wiring diagrams and looked up chassis setups to see what I can do to protect the electronics and keep them from shorting out. Along with using a golf club tube (might resort to making a PVC Chassis if this doesnt work as well as I'd like), I drew out a wiring diagram for what I think is the correct way to get this thing set up without it blowing up in my face or frying my LED.
NB Wiring.jpg
Being that it IS the prewired setup, matching the wires is either going to be really easy or really hard, but at any rate I'd like some feedback or suggestions
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