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Thread: First MHS Build "S/DS"

  1. #1

    Default First MHS Build "S/DS"

    Finally worked up the nerve to make my own saber and step into a larger world, diving feet first. After a great deal of research and being pointed in the right direction (Kudos to SilverSerpent for his undying patience) and some mill work/powdercoating (compliments to Tim for checking what I wanted done), I will have the parts I need to begin in about a couple of weeks once they arrive and I will bring this saber to life! I have, however, made a change or two for my part list for this thing:

    SaberBuilder_render4.jpg

    - Hilt style 2 with standard style switch hole
    - MHS choke style 1 short
    - Screw on LED blade holder style 17
    - MPS Pommel style 10
    - MHS Extension Blank Style 3
    - Activation box style 9
    - 2.1mm Power Jack
    - Machined button for Covertec clip
    - Main Body Powder Coating (Wet Black) (SH23)
    - Choke Powder Coating (Wet Black) (C1S3)
    - Extension Powder Coating (Wet Black) (EB31)
    - Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module
    - 16mm Anti Vandal Momentary Nickel Plated Switch
    - MWS Pre-Wired Nano Biscotte Sound Module
    - JST connectors + JST Extensions
    - 4-40 Button Head (for the Activation Box)
    - 8-32 x 1/4" socket head (for covertec button)
    - Premium Speaker
    - 2.1mm plug adapter for smart charger
    - Kill plug style 2
    - MHS speaker mount V4
    - LED "Corbin style" Battle blade 1" OD (32 inches)
    - 8-32 x 1/2" thumb screw (for the Blade Holder)
    - 18650 2600mAh Li-Ion Battery (3.7v) (my friend is looking into buying it from one of the electronics shops he deals with, though I can have one made if need be)

    I contemplated doing just an LED saber, but my brother wants a saber he can call his own for christmas, with a Petit Crouton no less, so after reading up as much as I could I resolved to build a saber with sound using the prewired NB and work from there. if I can do that, than I should be able to tackle a PC saber without much fuss.

    Just to be safe however, I looked up and saved a few pictures showing wiring diagrams and looked up chassis setups to see what I can do to protect the electronics and keep them from shorting out. Along with using a golf club tube (might resort to making a PVC Chassis if this doesnt work as well as I'd like), I drew out a wiring diagram for what I think is the correct way to get this thing set up without it blowing up in my face or frying my LED.
    NB Wiring.jpg

    Being that it IS the prewired setup, matching the wires is either going to be really easy or really hard, but at any rate I'd like some feedback or suggestions

  2. #2

    Default

    Looks like you have a pretty good handle on things.

    I don't see a pommel insert or MPS clip listed, but everything else looks good to me.
    We all have to start somewhere. The journey is all the more impressive by our humble beginnings.

    http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz for the lazy man's resistor calculator!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...e-to-Ohm-s-Law for getting resistor values the right way!

  3. #3

    Default

    Mhm, kind of wishing the MHS Builder would be able to show a 360 view of it all, though I picked up an insert just in case I wanted to use it, and the Covertec is mounted on opposite side of the hilt, hence why it's not shown on here, but thanks good to know I'm on the right track.

  4. #4

    Default

    Looks great. Cant wait to see it

  5. #5

    Default

    SDS Wiring Success.jpg

    Finally got all the wiring working correctly with this. only need to do two more things:

    -found the extension is just a tad long for me to use comfortably so I'm planning on using it for a future saber. Now I must tap/drill a hole to accept the 8/32 socket head screw for my covertec clip, same side as on my extension.

    -I also need to make a PVC chassis now, though I have yet to find a sled setup in the search engine here on the forums that would work for my single cell/NB setup so that it wont rattle around and short anything. I have velcro to secure my stuff though my attack plan needs a bit of work for this.

    EDIT: Finally got everything assembled, though I made more use of velcro than I thought i would, and not in the way I thought I would use it.

    When I was wiring everything in the hilt I mixed my battery/LED wires at first but once I reworked it, everything was running smooth. I also cut my golf club tube to about 4 inches long to house everything I needed, though my battery needed something other than heatshrink since I need something bigger than .75" diameter to fit it. so I ended up wrapping velcro around the job FOR NOW, and everything holds rather well. also had a bit for the top of my battery that I set in place so my NB doesn't touch it.

    And after feeding my wires into the tube I made and set everything in the hilt, I tinkered with the sensitivity and sounds a bit, cut the retention screw down a bit so it didnt stick out too far, and I now have a working saber ready to fight with.

    With the saber off/kill key in.
    IMAG0335.jpg
    Saber turned on. even with only a double wrap for the battle blade its plenty bright in person. and LOUD as well.
    IMAG0336.jpg
    And finally, with the saber beside my first TCSS work: my Anakin ROTS LuxIII Conversion I did years ago. complete performance difference between the two, but I found the sensitivity higher on my Anakin saber for the moment. Might fix it later.
    IMAG0338.jpg

    Although I labeled the saber after the initials for both versions of Form V lightsaber combat, I will call this hilt "Perseverance", for my struggles trying to make this all work, and my ability to endure setbacks and roadblocks.
    Last edited by Blade-Rave; 05-05-2013 at 01:11 PM.

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