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Thread: LEDengin 5w and 10W info and wiring guide....for noobs

  1. #141

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    What kind of color will I get if I wire up the W with them? Pinkish? Also, will just a resistor on the die provide a full 1A if wired in parallel, or will that require a puck? Im not too concerned about what shade of violet it is, just looking for full power on each die.
    Last edited by Cantankerous; 06-06-2012 at 11:40 AM.

  2. #142
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    colorwheel.jpg

    That is a light color wheel, it'll help you figure out what shades you'll get by mixing.

  3. #143

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    Hi FenderBender! Thanks again for this amazing tutorial! I'm working on my wiring diagram to plan out my first saber, and this guide has been phenomenally helpful!

    Quote Originally Posted by FenderBender View Post
    The PEX needs a direct input from your battery. I usually use the PEX as a junction from the recharge port to then jump to the soundboard. This saves wiring, and looks neater in the end.
    I'm not sure precisely what you mean by a junction here, could you sketch this out? Do you mean a wire going from the battery that splits and one half goes to the PEX and the other half to the soundboard? Or do you mean a wire that goes from battery+ to PEX+ to sound+?

  4. #144

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    Quote Originally Posted by TechKnight View Post
    Hi FenderBender! Thanks again for this amazing tutorial! I'm working on my wiring diagram to plan out my first saber, and this guide has been phenomenally helpful!



    I'm not sure precisely what you mean by a junction here, could you sketch this out? Do you mean a wire going from the battery that splits and one half goes to the PEX and the other half to the soundboard? Or do you mean a wire that goes from battery+ to PEX+ to sound+?
    He simply means two separate wires from B+ or the recharge switched terminal are not necessary. You jump from one component to the next with one wire.

  5. #145

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    Does anyone have a Full Powah setup diagram for the PC 2.0? I've looked through many threads but cannot find one. I am a little suprised this is not included in the PC manual.

    Or if there is one out there a link to it would be fine too.



    Thanks everyone!
    174fps

  6. #146

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    Hi 174fps. It's linked at the end of the first post in this thread. Here's the link again.

    http://www.plecterlabs.com/Media/Tut...titCrouton.jpg

    The diagram itself looks like it's from an older version of the board, but you should be able to figure it out from this.

  7. #147

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    Quote Originally Posted by TechKnight View Post
    Hi 174fps. It's linked at the end of the first post in this thread. Here's the link again.

    http://www.plecterlabs.com/Media/Tut...titCrouton.jpg

    The diagram itself looks like it's from an older version of the board, but you should be able to figure it out from this.
    Problem: that area is where the accent pads are now. I'd suggest contacting Erv directly. Though I do have to wonder if it's even necessary to do a Full Powah setup on PC2.0, at least for the LEDEngin. The PC2.0 outputs 2A now, wouldn't a 2 series x 2 parallel setup work? As long as you're not planning to overdrive the LED?
    The lightsaber hilt is capable of producing a blade of pure energy. The lightsaber hilt has proven to be completely safe. The saber blade however has not. Do not touch the operational end of the saber blade. Do not look directly at the operational end of the saber blade. Do not immerse the saber blade into your flesh, not even partially.

  8. #148
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    Depends on color. Greens and blues would still be out of the operational range of typical battery packs.

    If you're new, please take the time we all consider just as precious as you and READ!

    GET LATHED!

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  9. #149

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    Capture3.jpgHey everyone!

    So on Kevin's advice I contacted Erv and got some infor on the Full Powah setup for PC/PEX 2.0...

    Per Erv'
    "Wiring on a PC 2 is exactly as on the PC1, the control wire goes to the resistor that is touching the 3 pin black SMT transistor right next to it.
    On a PC2 it's relocated right next to the FoC pad, there's only one part like that on the board so it's easy to locate.
    Control wire is going to the top left pin, on the side of the transistor that has 2 pins.

    I will attach a diagram of my understanding of his comments, with the new signal wire to the appropriate component also in yellow for easy ID.



    Cheers!
    174fps

  10. #150

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    Quote Originally Posted by 174fps View Post
    Capture3.jpgHey everyone!

    So on Kevin's advice I contacted Erv and got some infor on the Full Powah setup for PC/PEX 2.0...

    Per Erv'
    "Wiring on a PC 2 is exactly as on the PC1, the control wire goes to the resistor that is touching the 3 pin black SMT transistor right next to it.
    On a PC2 it's relocated right next to the FoC pad, there's only one part like that on the board so it's easy to locate.
    Control wire is going to the top left pin, on the side of the transistor that has 2 pins.

    I will attach a diagram of my understanding of his comments, with the new signal wire to the appropriate component also in yellow for easy ID.



    Cheers!
    174fps
    Excellent, that needs to be stickied somewhere prominent... maybe even linked to in the PEX store listing.... IMO.
    The lightsaber hilt is capable of producing a blade of pure energy. The lightsaber hilt has proven to be completely safe. The saber blade however has not. Do not touch the operational end of the saber blade. Do not look directly at the operational end of the saber blade. Do not immerse the saber blade into your flesh, not even partially.

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