all help welcome...

[Battle_1]

hey guys.
just have a few ?s bout my design.
heres my parts list.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Vi...shlistId=11450
a little iffy bout the design. i think hilt might be too short for hilt.
thanks

[Knighthammer]

Given your list...a 4" body with a Blade holder and a pomel, your talking a complete overall length of about 6", if your going do just a light up saber (no sound) then I suppose it would be fine but really short. Most sabers i've seen typically are closer to 9-12" over all length, but the saber is for you - so how ever long you would want.

Personally I would add a 3" FM to FM tube & a M to M addapter which would give a nice length.
Maybe this - http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/3-...tor--P122.aspx
and this - http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Do...le-1-P127.aspx

Again - its all personal preference so don't take my suggestions as anything more then that - friendly suggestions.

[Battle_1]

is the extra parts for a saber w/ sound???
i just want a stunt saber

[Silver Serpent]

I don't see a pommel insert clip, but you can easily substitute a paperclip or something to hold the pommel insert instead. You don't have any way to attach it to your belt either. It's fine if you want to carry it by hand all the time though, or if you plan on using a holster or something.

Yes, your design is pretty short, but I don't see any difficulty fitting it all together.

[ecko]

I agree with Knighthammer. Yes the electronics will probably all fit inside the 4 inch body if it's only a stunt saber. If you want to upgrade it later to sound you're gonna need more length.

Also, while looking at your parts list. You are missing:
MPS Clip for the pommel insert - http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MPS-Clip--P72.aspx
Heat sink shim for the Rebel LED - http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/He...tars-P550.aspx
and you also have a 10 degree lens, where you should have a 8.7 to go with the Rebel - http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Lu...ngle-P537.aspx

You should choose a latching switch rather than momentary unless you want to hold it down all the time.

Hope that helps.

[Battle_1]

fixed but, how do you wire a DPDT Latching switch???

[Jedi-Loreen]

I'm assuming you're going to be using alkaline batteries. Which means that you're going to have to unscrew the pommel to change them.

If you put your switch in the pommel, that means you'll be twisting and untwisting 4 wires from that AV switch every time you need to change them.

You will also need a resistor for the LED inside the illuminated switch. You can find out which one you need here:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/wi...er/wiring.aspx
When you use the resistor chart, it will also give you a wiring diagram for that type of switch.

What length blade are you going to use? I wouldn't go for a 40", since this is really going to be a one-handed saber.

[Battle_1]

thanks j-lo

[angle]

Not sure if this will be of help to you, but if you want to do some dueling with your saber, a lot of the basic techniques use two hands on the hilt. I actually used the cardboard from a paper towel roll to mock up my hilt, which helped me figure out a good length.

Of course, the great thing about the MHS parts is that you can always add an extension to your saber later on if you find it is too short.