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Thread: Economy Version Hasbro Sound Tutorial

  1. #311

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rhyen Skytracker View Post
    You want to use the wire from the board that says lamp on the board to go to the base of the transistor. The rest is still the same.
    Got it. Do I need to add in a ground wire anyplace or is the ground wire from the momentary switch fine?

    Here's a diagram I found on another board. It's the Mace Windu Force Action. I've added in labels around the outside to show what each will be connected to, and I've added in the transistor (borrowed from another diagram). Everything look okay?

    Mace Windu Force Action2.jpg
    Last edited by DaedalusKnight; 01-09-2011 at 12:26 AM.

  2. #312
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    That won't work like that. The lamp wire (which is a negative) goes to the base of the transistor, the Batt + goes to the emitter of the transistor and the LED + goes to the collector of the transistor. It won't work the way you have it. Look at the second diagram in this thread. http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...highlight=2010

    Live long and...I mean May the force be with you. http://saberconcepts.50.forumer.com/index.php

  3. #313

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rhyen Skytracker View Post
    That won't work like that. The lamp wire (which is a negative) goes to the base of the transistor, the Batt + goes to the emitter of the transistor and the LED + goes to the collector of the transistor. It won't work the way you have it. Look at the second diagram in this thread. http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...highlight=2010
    Okay... I clearly goofed. The collector is the leftmost tine of the transistor, the base is the center tine, and the emitter is on the right, is that correct?

    That second diagram is a bit confusing, though, as it's got a regulator (which I assume I won't need as I'm using only three AA batteries). Here's my second stab at it... doing my best to convert from the diagram to my situation. Let me know if I screwed up again:

    Mace Windu Force Action3.jpg

    Thanks again for the assistance.


    Edit: Just noticed that it says "clash sensor" where it should say "swing sensor" (I think). I'll revise the label next time around.
    Last edited by DaedalusKnight; 01-10-2011 at 01:53 AM.

  4. #314
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    It depends on which transistor you use as to the pin Layout. On the TIP42C the leftmost pin is the base, the center is the collector and the rightmost is the collector. These pin layouts are different for different transistors.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rhyen Skytracker View Post
    It depends on which transistor you use as to the pin Layout. On the TIP42C the leftmost pin is the base, the center is the collector and the rightmost is the collector. These pin layouts are different for different transistors.
    You have the word "collector" in there twice. Which pin is the emitter?
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  6. #316

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    The right most pin is the emitter.

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  7. #317

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rhyen Skytracker View Post
    It depends on which transistor you use as to the pin Layout. On the TIP42C the leftmost pin is the base, the center is the collector and the rightmost is the collector. These pin layouts are different for different transistors.

    Quote Originally Posted by Skottsaber View Post
    The right most pin is the emitter.
    Okay... easily fixed. Here's the new diagram, with enhanced specificity:

    Mace Windu Force Action4.jpg

  8. #318
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    The only thing I see is that the switch needs to go between the on/off and one of the off. It does not go to the gnd for the switch.

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  9. #319

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rhyen Skytracker View Post
    The only thing I see is that the switch needs to go between the on/off and one of the off. It does not go to the gnd for the switch.
    That's where the original switch is located, though... Would a new switch not work if I placed it in the same place as the old?

    The two "off" wires are connected to a switch in the (original) LED housing that (as far as I can tell) would shut off the saber when the blade was manually retracted. I haven't taken apart that assembly yet, but I assume it's another momentary switch.

    Perhaps they mislabeled the "gnd" wire, as it seems to be the other half of the activation circuit, not an actual ground.

  10. #320
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    You need to replace the original switch with the switch you will use in your saber. It MUST be a momentary switch. You will not need the other "off" wire, just the one "off" and the "on/off" wires.

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