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Thread: In blackest day....

  1. #11

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    Very nice looking saber. I'm personally not a fan of activation boxes but the rest is really cool. Great weathering job.

    http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y23...0Saber%20Hilts

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  2. #12

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    I also like the poem in the beginning of your post, is that yours?
    Actually the poem is from the Green Lantern comics. Each Lantern Corp has their own chant they must say when recharging their power rings, and this one is the Sinestro Corps'. The Green Lantern's one weakness is the color yellow, and the Sinestro Corp uses yellow power rings, hence the name with the yellow blade.

    I have been thinking of using a stencil for the jedi logo just like what you did. If you wouldn't mind detailing your process to do the stenciling here or in PM, I would be grateful!
    I started out by going into Photoshop and resizing the image a bunch of times so I would have a few to choose from to see which size fit the best. I then took all my different templates and lined them up so they would print on a single sheet. I then printed them off on a sheet of 110lb card stock. I use card stock because you need the rigidity of it to hold up to cutting out the smaller details. Normal paper will tear to easily.

    This is my original sheet


    After I chose what image I wanted to use, I cut out a small box around the image. Then I very carefully used a x-acto knife to cut out the design itself. I can't stress enough how important it is to use a very sharp or new blade to do this. It makes all the difference in the world. It's also important to note that the smaller you make the image the more likely you're going to loose a lot of the little details. I found that when I made my stencil smaller than what I have the point's in the logo began to disappear.

    Here is my final stencil


    Once the design is cut out, I applied a healthy layer of Easy-Tack to the back of the stencil. I do this because since I'm painting on a curved surface it helps the stencil to stick to the entire surface in order to prevent over spray. I actually use it whenever I stencil anything, you'll never have to worry about over spray again. Easy-Tack is a repositionable adhesive spray, it can be found in any hobby store. Krylon makes Easy-Tack, but there are other brands of repositionable adhesive as well. After I spray the stencil with the Easy-Tack I let it sit for about 5 minutes. I don't want it to be so sticky that it leaves a bunch of gunk behind.

    Once the Easy-Tack has dried to my liking, I then position the stencil on my clamp and tape down the edges with some masking tape. I also cover the rest of the clamp with masking tape to prevent paint from getting all over everything. You want to make sure and press down all the small points onto the hilt to prevent over spray. I then begin to apply the paint. Lot's of very thin layers as to prevent bubbling. After each layer I spray I always check the stencil to make sure all the points are still stuck to the hilt.

    I like to remove my stencils a couple of hours after my final layer. But you can wait to remove them after it has completely dried. This part can be a little nerve racking because you have to by very careful when pulling up the stencil in order to make sure you don't pull up the design. That's why I don't wait until it's completely dry. When the paint is still a little wet it will separate easier between the stencil and the actual design. If you look very carefully at my logo, the bottom right point in the center starburst is gone. That's because I pulled up my stencil a little too fast.

    After you pull up your stencil, if you notice there is still a little gunk left from the Easy-Tack, don't worry, it's pretty easy to remove. Wait until your paint has fully dried, I usually wait 48 hours, take a kneadable eraser and blot at the areas where the gunk is.

    But yeah... essentially that's how I do my stenciling, whether it be on canvas, saber's, or concrete walls.
    Last edited by Azryel; 09-05-2010 at 03:41 PM.

  3. #13

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    I like this saber.
    You did a really top notch job and the weathering is superb, but it's not quite balanced.
    I think you really really need to weather the heck out of the activation clamp/box so it matches the rest of the saber.
    It seems a shame to scuff up your nice emblem, but i think it would finish off the the whole look and feel of this piece.
    Besides that IMO this is a really nice saber.

  4. #14

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    Thank you so much for detailing that. Gave me a couple of Ideas! Like i mentioned and it seems treadingwolf agrees... you really should weather that to make it match, but... its your saber. Looks awesome anyway
    Every time Tim ships an order... an angel gets its wings



    "Just get one and go nuts, that's how this hobby works. Get stuff. Go nuts. Period." ~FenderBender~

  5. #15

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    Awesome! I love a saber with nice weathering and colours for sure.

    I know there's some mixed reactions to the lack of weathering on the clamp, but who says the saber hasn't gone through repairs or upgrades. It just makes it seems like there's a story involved.

  6. #16

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    very good looking saber ..like the stencil for the logo

  7. #17

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    Very nice! We did a Green Lantern Themed saber a while back for a GLForum member ( http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index...5065#msg335065 ) ...and this great! You should post it on the GL forums too!
    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=4291&dateline=1247681  058

  8. #18
    Council Member
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    Lord Dottore Matto's Avatar
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    This is quite well done. I like the use of color and the aesthetic is original. Kudos!
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  9. #19
    Council Member Novastar's Avatar
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    Sweet...
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