Yes good show. That is what you would need. It doesn't sound like this is whats being attempted but hard to be sure. Good work.
Yes good show. That is what you would need. It doesn't sound like this is whats being attempted but hard to be sure. Good work.
Possibly. THIS is the sort of idea that merits experimentation in my opinion, because it cannot easily be refuted with simple thought experiments. At least not by me.
I like the idea of Lenticular, but I wonder if it'd be effectively the same thing as 2 layers of Diffraction grating aligned so that at the middle it blocks and at the edges light shines through?
Or using some carefully constructed paint...brush? Spreader? Dripper? I'm not sure what would be the best way to lay down perfectly straight lines...laser etcher? Does anyone have one that can do the INside of a tube in straight lines? It'd be more labor intensive but a lot cheaper...
It's not supposed to be cheap or easy. It's an ordeal.
But if you're not here to make a light saber the hard way, just follow this guide and stay out of the way.
If you're lost, here's a directory of all the most pertinent threads - it'll save sorting through the rubbish, thank the mods for braving it for us.
If you have a question, there's a solid chance it's answered here. Not too much to ask you to check ONE page for your question before posting, is it?
It wouldn't work with out the lenticular lense setup because the lense acts as a focusing guide for the veiwer. if you took the lense off of lenticular moveing image of 3d image it looses the effect the lense gives it. This is because the lense only allows you to see on or the other strip from a particular angle. So if it works properly for the blade being a cylender the no matter what angle you view the blade from 360 degrees around you see a black core and a illuminated glow. With out the lense you would see stripes.
"Art is never finished, merely abandoned." Da Vinci
Yeahyeah, I don't mean "Hey let's take a lenticular image and remove the lens" like in http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lvvcR...layer_embedded or "Let's use a zoetrope", I mean more like "Let's take 2 zoetropes, one big, one small, each with exactly 12 apertures, and align them so that one opening runs into the other's wall and vice versa, so that the only way light can escape the middle is at extreme angles." See figure A below
And just to further annoy TimeRender by reading his words exactly as written: If a solid core is the problem, then (Once again assuming it's possible to barely illuminate a blade sufficiently that you need to see the light from the front and back edge)...;-D
(Seriously though, I still don't understand why the center would be brighter than the edges if we buy into the Illuminated Skin theory of saber lighting...)
PS - I don't really mean to be such a troll, but you guys DID demand I Read Before Posting on an off-topic flameathon. Nothing gets my hackles up like someone blindly insisting the truth can be found somewhere in page 2 of a 5 page rant on why there are no black LEDs...
It's not supposed to be cheap or easy. It's an ordeal.
But if you're not here to make a light saber the hard way, just follow this guide and stay out of the way.
If you're lost, here's a directory of all the most pertinent threads - it'll save sorting through the rubbish, thank the mods for braving it for us.
If you have a question, there's a solid chance it's answered here. Not too much to ask you to check ONE page for your question before posting, is it?
Ok, first of all you are acting like a troll now. Secondly, you never finished the sentence that I just quoted, so I have no idea what point you were trying to make. Third, the answer IS back a few pages, and it has nothing to do with there not being black LEDs. I also posted the answer on the OTHER black blade threads with pretty little pictures that even YOU should be able to understand. You should go read it and quit making a fool out of yourself.
Edit: You must be the bottle feeding type, so I'll tell you that the answer was posted all the way back on page 4 post 37. Everything before and after that would be useful reading for you as well, but that specifically is the post I have been telling you to read all along. If you want the answer with pictures, go to the "black blade development" thread and read post 53 on page 6. So don't pull that BS "Nothing gets my hackles up like someone blindly insisting the truth can be found somewhere in page 2 of a 5 page rant on why there are no black LEDs... " when you OBVIOUSLY never read the thread. I'm calling you out!
Last edited by TimeRender; 06-10-2010 at 11:08 AM.
Oh lighten up, it was a joke. There were 2 figures attached to that post; the second was for you. An inverted core, shaped like a + sign. Get it? The light wouldn't be interrupted by the solid core, it would flow around it like a knife; and in theory the light at point 1 would be as dark as the light at point 3, and point 2 would be twice as bright. (I'm afraid you'll have to scroll up to see the illustration, as the forum will not let me repost illustrations - it assumes everyone saw it the first time I suppose).
But this assumes the depth of the blade at the point of viewing determines brightness; perhaps it's angle, or the amount of PC the photons have to pass through, that explains why it's brighter in the middle and dimmer at the edges. Oh well, it was intended as a joke anyway; thought a fellow Pastafarian would get that.
Yes, I did read that, I thought it was one of the few well-made points in the 11 page cluster of I'm not sure the filament bit was a good point - the core (or imaginary core) of a lightsaber is not the light source, whereas the filament is. Though the wires that hold up the filament would be roughly serving as the core, so I guess that works. Still - are we talking clear bulbs or frosted? Clear bulbs you can, theoretically, see the wires holding up the lighting element (filament) for certain wattages; frosted bulbs you can't see through even when they're shut off. Then there's the Flickering Flame special effect bulbs - very low wattage, very low light, and you can see the Black Core of the "Tongue of Flame" shape even when they're on, though granted only from the proper sides.
_______________
As for your other point:
I will refer you to my earlier acknowledgement and rebuttal:
So now that's 3 times I've acknowledged that the shop standard 5 degree optics wouldn't work; so now for the 3rd time I'll ask without any real hope of anything but a n00b-flame response, what about different optics? Doing Something Clever With Reflectors, or Side-Optics, or both? Surely it is heresy to speak of other distributors, but such things do exist, and R&D is the spirit of the hobby, so see the attachment, which does not link to the rival site; such optics do exist. With a side-optic "Donut shaped" lens and hypothetical custom-made reflectors, and probably a wider than standard saber tube, would it be possible to make a toroid shaped light source? With a 6wire buckpuck and linear potentiometer, would it be able to light the edges just enough so that one can still "See their hand on the other side"? Would it be able to light it enough so that you can't see clean through but can still see the core? Would it only work for very short lightsabers even then?
But that's the Solidcore/Reflector theory. I'll grant the Solidcore-no reflector theory won't work; I don't believe anyone's actually advocating that anymore, but if it gives you any pleasure to debunk it, feel free.
Now, as for the accusation of trolling:
Good thing only n00bs can be trolls.
PS - if you wanna get me banned for trolling, feel free; I'm just trying to pick at a fun little challenge (the black blade, not you), if you need a newbie-free environment in which to work you're welcome to it.
Last edited by Tyhm; 06-10-2010 at 05:40 PM. Reason: Added PS
It's not supposed to be cheap or easy. It's an ordeal.
But if you're not here to make a light saber the hard way, just follow this guide and stay out of the way.
If you're lost, here's a directory of all the most pertinent threads - it'll save sorting through the rubbish, thank the mods for braving it for us.
If you have a question, there's a solid chance it's answered here. Not too much to ask you to check ONE page for your question before posting, is it?
Ok, let me first apologize for the degeneration of the tone on this thread. The oldtimers here know by now that although I am usually polite, when I have to repeat myself several times I tend to get frustrated, especially when I am met with rudeness and laziness. I am not SOLELY responsible, but I am sorry. (Edit: Not solely responsible for the situation, ABSOLUTELY responsible for my actions.)
I took another look at your diagram. If you had explained it in your post I wouldn't have posted my response. It was not labeled and I had no way to know that you intended for the core to be shaped like a T-bar. That's actually a very clever way to solve the problem. It doesn't solve it entirely, but it comes fairly close. Next time, don't just post a picture, post some explanation of what it represents.
The second post that you quoted just now isn't actually the post I was referring to, but you saw the second one from the other thread so it's all good. You seem to get the point. I disagree with you about the filament analogy because for all intents and purposes the diffuser IS essentially behaving as though it were a light source, but that's a minor point of contention and it's really neither here nor there. You're slightly over analyzing the comparison, but I can tell you understand the basic point.
In the next quote, in which I posted three diagrams, if you read it more closely you will see that I VERY MUCH DID acknowledge the need for a specialized optic, although your T-bar idea reduces the need for such a specialized part. However, and I don't want to beat you over the head with this, but it seems that you are refuting your own point by showing that I did indeed acknowledge the need for a specialized optic. Also, the side emitting optics don't do what you seem to think they do. They bend the light perpendicular to the LED. They DON'T create a doughnut shaped beam, but I can see how the picture may have misled you. However, even if such an optic DOES exist, it doesn't solve the next problem, which you yourself mentioned.
Assuming that you can direct the light up the blade without needing to shine it through the center of the blade (again, your T-bar core helps VERY much with this) you would still need to keep the light dim enough that you still see the core. Now I will admit, as I THINK I have before (don't quote me, I can't remember for certain if I have) that this will produce a blade with a core that is darker than the aura around it. However, that ALONE does not satisfactorily produce the desired effect. The core could be made dim, but not black, and the aura can never be made as bright as what we have seen in the game and on the TV show. Although I cannot say for certain without testing just how bright it would be, I strongly suspect that it would scarcely be any brighter than a dollar store toy saber, and that simply isn't up to the standards of this forum or the replica prop community at large.
Now I maintain that my harsh words before were in response to your attitude, and I still believe that you hadn't actually read those posts until I specifically told you to, but that's no excuse for my response to you, so for that I apologize. What I said to Matt I don't feel was trolling. I have a great deal of respect for Matt and I had rather expected that he would have already read the posts that I was referring to. I meant no insult to him. He is one of this forum's most genuinely nice members. And as for the "warning" that I posted, I was making a threat to show pictures. Really? THAT is troll behavior? That my friend was a joke, plain and simple.
Finally, I am quite flattered that you think I have the clout around here to get you banned for being a troll. I am not a council member. I don't tell them what to do. I don't recall ever having expressed to a council member a desire to have anyone banned, with the exception of a spambot who was on here posting "adult" images. Contrary to your opinions of this forum, I am quite accepting of noobs when they show an effort to learn things on their own, when they ask legitimate questions, and when they are respectful of the other members of the forum. I frequently post answers to questions in an effort to help newer members. It is not my desire to see this become a noob-free zone. Every single member here was at one time new to this hobby, even myself, even the oldtimers, and even Tim. What I don't tolerate is laziness, bottle feeding, bad attitudes, and those who refuse to try to understand the help that is offered to them. I'm sometimes guilty of one of those things myself, and I have certainly made mistakes, which is why I feel that everyone should be given the chance to make amends, but those who make a habit of being a nuisance may not find these forums as welcoming as those who do not.
Last edited by TimeRender; 06-10-2010 at 08:26 PM.
People, keep this civil or posts will be removed and threads will be locked. No more direct flaming of other members will be tolerated. Remember, this is just a fun hobby for us all. No need to get angry over the topic.
First and only warning
Aluke123 on every other forum - Old grumpy moderator here
Thread Index, The Saber Building Dictionary, and The Basic Saber-Build Tutorial - Read Them!
I think I posted this at FX a while ago, but not here, so I'll do it again:
See where this was going? A solid rod for inside the clear and white blades.....
Installed the solid rod in the clear blade and turned on the saber:
Hmm....not impressed....
Installed the rod in the trans-white blade and turned on the saber:
Yeah.....that doesn't look like a black-core blade to me.....
so using something solid is probably not going to work...and you have to remember, that you're trying to re-create what is essentially a 2-dimensional effect in a 3-dimensional world. If you were able to get the side walls of the blade tube to light up, it would obscure the core anyway, regardless of what color it is.
Last edited by Jay-gon Jinn; 06-10-2010 at 10:47 PM.
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