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Thread: Sabersound 1.0

  1. #1

    Default Sabersound 1.0

    After all the mucking around with tiny solder points on this card. Cranked it up. Sounds good for 2 seconds then the swing sound goes nuts until i turn it off. Any idea why this could be?

    Also is it ok if i sandpaper off the nobs on either side of the board so it actually fits in.

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    Default

    What "nobs" (knobs?) are you talking about?
    In order to see the Light,
    you must sometimes risk the Dark.
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  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by runner4life View Post
    After all the mucking around with tiny solder points on this card. Cranked it up. Sounds good for 2 seconds then the swing sound goes nuts until i turn it off. Any idea why this could be?

    Also is it ok if i sandpaper off the nobs on either side of the board so it actually fits in.

    Thanks
    My Sabersound does that when the batteries are low.
    As for the "nubs" (where the boards were connected together when manufactured) you can sand them off.

    There is a simple math formula for Saber names.-----------------------To check out the sound fonts I've made:
    ((Force-Dark Side)xEnglish^awesome)/Force)xLanguage[X].---------http://www.youtube.com/user/DarthXusia1/videos
    Quote from mihunai----------------------------------------------------------If you are interested in any of them, please PM me.

  4. #4

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    haha nubs! thats the word i was talking bout. Well i had 4 aa batteries in 3 were over 150 charge only one was at 80. So it shouldnt be that low.

  5. #5

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    Hmmm... can I assume that you have the capacitor on the switch trick installed?

    There is a simple math formula for Saber names.-----------------------To check out the sound fonts I've made:
    ((Force-Dark Side)xEnglish^awesome)/Force)xLanguage[X].---------http://www.youtube.com/user/DarthXusia1/videos
    Quote from mihunai----------------------------------------------------------If you are interested in any of them, please PM me.

  6. #6

  7. #7

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Darth Xusia View Post
    Hmmm... can I assume that you have the capacitor on the switch trick installed?
    Yes please explain. I have never heard about this.

    On sugestion that I can give, ditch the 4 aaa and go for a set of 3.7 lith-ion batts. and you should have more then enough power for that board. I have a set of liths powering my SS1.0 with a 1000ma buck puck on a blue P4 and I get a good amount of run time and the thing is crazy brite.

  8. #8
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    Default

    Read through this thread for the "switch bounce" problem that the US 2.0 and 2.1 had. The Sabersound board, since it was made by the same company, can have the same issues.

    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ead.php?t=6633

    And this thread, especially around page 6:


    http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ead.php?t=7988
    In order to see the Light,
    you must sometimes risk the Dark.
    TCSS MODERATOR


    BLUE 8 Ready to ROCK and ROLL!

  9. #9

    Default

    Hi All,

    I've got exactly the same problem with my brand new Sabersound 1.0...

    Is anybody have the solution, do i need to solder a capacitor on my switch wires ? How ? with wich Capacity...?

    Thanks a lot...

    (Excuse my english, I'm just a frenchie...)

  10. #10

    Default

    Yes you need capcitor its a 0.1uf 50v ceramic type it should help
    Sith Happens

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