I'm not Tim, but I do believe that would be right. Personally, I tend to pre-plan my wire lengths so I can remove the batteries and charge them and/or replace them as needed. Granted, that's mostly because the last time I tried to wire up a recharge port, something went wrong and closed the circuit on the batteries themselves, causing them to heat up and start to swell. (Thankfully I got them out in time before they started leaking.)
Apologies, Vode, for the necro-post, but I want to make sure I can do this.
I'm pretty certain I can, but I do NOT want exploding batteries right next to the my Ultrasound.
I want to do the same setup as Shadar, but using the protected 14500's instead of the unprotected ones.
These still work with a smart charger and a recharge port, yes?
Last edited by Eco; 12-14-2009 at 12:11 AM.
"You don't stop playing because you grow old, you grow old because you stop playing."
-Benjamin Franklin
Hey Eco, i went w/ the protected cells after being able to order them, here is how you wire it up...hope this helps!
(oh and keep in mind you may not be using the exact same setup but this should give you the idea)
Every time Tim ships an order... an angel gets its wings
"Just get one and go nuts, that's how this hobby works. Get stuff. Go nuts. Period." ~FenderBender~
If you did decide to use unprotected cells and use the PCB board, the board has a BM pad too (battery middle) that you would have to solder too. So, using the 2 AA battery holder you would have to solder a wire on the bottom of the holder (the middle of the batteries) to go to the BM pad on the PCB Board. It is on page 3 of the PCB TI. http://www.all-battery.com/productim...4V%207-13A.pdf
Last edited by Rhyen Skytracker; 12-14-2009 at 11:39 AM.
Okay, that's what I needed to know, thanks!
"You don't stop playing because you grow old, you grow old because you stop playing."
-Benjamin Franklin
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