Side note here...my first saber was a royal blue lux III, looking back i would have chosen differently as it is the dimmest color led and i would have liked something a little brighter. That being said, it STILL lights up my bedroom plenty bright
Side note here...my first saber was a royal blue lux III, looking back i would have chosen differently as it is the dimmest color led and i would have liked something a little brighter. That being said, it STILL lights up my bedroom plenty bright
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"Just get one and go nuts, that's how this hobby works. Get stuff. Go nuts. Period." ~FenderBender~
yeah i was noticing that, so its royal blue thats the dimmest and green and white that are the brightest right?
I'd add a choke to it, like this:
You'll need to add a guarded switch to your order, the kits do not have them available as an option. I would skip the K2, though. It requires 1500ma to light up, and will drain your batteries faster.
There is nothing really wrong with a Lux III Royal blue....it may be dimmer than the Lux III Blue, or the P4 blue, but I've used the Royal Blue before, and was happy with the deep shade of blue that it provides.
If you don't intend to do any heavy type of dueling with this saber, then I'd go with a standard TCSS thin-walled show blade. If you wanted to, you could also add a roll of cellophane clear gift wrap to that to increase it's brightness a bit.
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That was a very helpful post Jay-gon
I divided this saber into 3 phases, and thats actually the 2nd phase of the build (w/o choke, w/choke, and i'm going to try the first version i posted). and yeah i realized i had to order the switch separate. I just figured since the K2 was cheaper and brighter even though it was 1500ma (btw, ma=milliamps right?), that i would get it first. regardless, Lux III is probably a better option starting out anyway haha as long as its brighter than my stock mr maul i'm fine
and no i really dont plan on any dueling, especially seeing them go through what nova puts them through, i dont think i need a thick-walled blade ha but does the thick-wall add to any sort of diffusion? (i remember reading about it possibly being dimmer, but nothing about the other effects)
A thick-walled blade may actually make it dimmer. If you want it to be as bright as possible, I'd stick to a thin-walled type of blade.
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yeah i figured as much
recently i undertook the challenge of converting a .45 scale ep V vader saber to hold a blade and led--only thing is, i didnt realize how difficult wiring a simple saber is when not only have i never done so, but my first attempt is .45 in scale. at least i successfully gutted it and have a plan on how i will do it--what really bright led can i power off 2 size N batteries and not have it sear my hand? haha i should only need .45 scale brightness
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Think there's a way to get a blade
that small that you know of?
How small? 1/2"? 3/8"? 3/8 is the smallest I know of in polycarbonate tubing, if that's what you want. But you'll have to get that on your own.
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I was just basically asking what's the smallest you've seen, but that pretty much answers that
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