Economy Version Hasbro Sound Tutorial

[sfer1]

I looked into those CREE leds and they look a little difficult to mount, so I want to stick to stuff from the TCSS shop. I'm probably going blue Seoul P4. So the 350mA this card puts out wouldnt nearly drive that at a brightness I'm shooting for so heres my idea:

Would it be possible to power the LED directly from the battery pack (with resistor), but still have the board and LED both be turned on from the same switch?

I think this is a better solution:



I used a 5V relay I got from Radioshack.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...78&tab=summary

[Dendore]

What exactly does the relay do? I mean thats a 1000mA relay with a 1000mA buckpuck (I also don't see why you have the buckpuck and the driver board... thought they did the same thing).... which I guess means it puts out 1A to the LED.... which is exactly what I want. But doesn't that mean it will be drawing 1A through the board and fry the board?

[sfer1]

The relay acts as the switch. The BuckPuck puts out 1A to the LED. No, you won't be drawing 1A through the board.

[Matt Thorn]

What exactly does the relay do? I mean thats a 1000mA relay with a 1000mA buckpuck (I also don't see why you have the buckpuck and the driver board... thought they did the same thing).... which I guess means it puts out 1A to the LED.... which is exactly what I want. But doesn't that mean it will be drawing 1A through the board and fry the board?

The relay keeps the circuit for the soundboard and the circuit for the LED "quarantined" from each other. The sound board triggers the relay, which closes the LED circuit, but the LED circuit get its power directly from the battery pack, not through the soundboard.

[pus2meong]

Hello, I got this hasbro board. But this one is different from the one at the first page. I kinda confused with the wiring. Anyone ever use this kind of sound board? Here is what I can figure it out so far.



Please correct me if I'm wrong:
1. Led wire is the one with LED+ and LED- marks
2. Power wire is the one with M+ and M- marks (one of these cable also connected to the Diode, so I came to this conclusion)
3 Speaker wire is the one with SP+ and SP- marks
4. Switch wire is the one with S+ and S marks

Am I making a mistake?

[Rhyen Skytracker]

Could you take another picture with the wires moved out of the way so we can see all the labels on the board? I have several different types at home and I will check them after work.

[pus2meong]

Could you take another picture with the wires moved out of the way so we can see all the labels on the board? I have several different types at home and I will check them after work.

And here the rest (don't wanna show it all here, too big and take alot of space).

http://i362.photobucket.com/albums/o...g/IMG_1564.jpg
http://i362.photobucket.com/albums/o...g/IMG_1566.jpg
http://i362.photobucket.com/albums/o...g/IMG_1571.jpg
http://i362.photobucket.com/albums/o...g/IMG_1575.jpg

Let me know if you need more specific place.

[cardcollector]

What you have is an Obi-wan "Feel the force" sound board...

Here is a thread to help- http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ead.php?t=6811

[Rhyen Skytracker]

You beat me to it CC. lol Card Collector is correct, that does look like an Obi-wan feel the force sound card. By the way, what kind of camera do you have? It take great close up pics.

[Matt Thorn]

Just don't do what I did and try to override the "flash on clash" effect by using the wires for the motor. You will kill the board.