Both photoshop and paint are obsolete when you can model in 3D!
3D modeling is great, but not everyone has 3D modeling programs, nor can they afford them. That's why I took the most basic of program that comes on most all windows based computers and showed how to use it.
Your welcome Dacota.
I did think about the concepts and sketches thread, but wasn't sure if it would be good to post a bunch of designs in there.
Especialy not now, after X's coment. Which I agree with.
But I think I will be posting MHS designs that probably won't get built. It will give people ideas for their sabers.
Proud owner of the last two style 6 MHS blade holders!
<('-'<)(>'-')><('-'<)<('-'<)(>'-')>(>'-')><('-'<)(>'-')>
the MS paint tutorial is great, cant wait to test it out on a couple of concept designs ive penciled out on paper.
Temporis
"Execute Order 66!"
thanks corbin, youre a clever sod!
iv worked with MS paint more then any other program (10+ years or so) and thought i knew all the little tricks... i was WRONG! thanks for this. even i learned a few things about MS paint! the whole make a red box and put a circle in it for round objects... Genius! i usually spend the time zooming in with a brush and slowly removing everything from around it....
---------------------------------------------------
best blaster refracting emitter... 450 Imperial Credits
custom quadrinineum crystal... 1020 Imperial Credits
droxsus catheum power cell... 400 Imperial Credits
knowing you just built the most awesome saber... priceless. there are some things money can't buy for everything else. there's the Master Imperial Credit card.
Thread which is started by Corbin_Das is really pretty cool and all information which is start from initial process is really good.
After watching your thread i understand whole process which sounds good..
You really share knowledgable information with us..
Corbin Das: Thanks for the tip on using Paint for saber renders! I never thought of doing that. Just one question for you. When I copy/stretch/paste colored sections over top of the bare metal sections or copy/paste whole hilts before changing the colors and then save the image as a .jpg file the colors sometimes become pale and I get "noise" in the colored areas where the color pixels a slightly scrambled and the image looks blurred. Any idea why or how to stop it from happening? it would take a long time to go in and correct things pixel by pixel.
At Jedi-Elf, The way to stop the pixelation or "noise" is to save it as a .bmp file, takes up tons more room but no pixelation.
New to the forum: READ, READ, READ! it's the best way not to get flamed.
Time for a kirby dance <('-'<) (><) <('-')> (>'-')> (>'-'<)<('-'<) (><) <('-')> (>'-')> (>'-'<)
Thanks for that tip Sairon! The renders I'm doing now look fine and there's no more pixelation!
Bookmarks