Eandori was *JUST* talking to Erv and myself about this concept for CF.
He might be able to help, so... who knows, maybe he'll see this thread and chime in!
I will say... a POT is basically a variable resistor. In essence... think of it like when you throw a resistor onto a "direct drive" saber. The more it resists--the less power/current is getting to the LED, and if you find the "sweet spot", you can figure out how to dim the light.
Same applies for the sound (for the mostpart). You could always start with metering the current on the sound/speaker lines... make SOME sort of educated guess as to what you need to resist (100ohms? 200ohms?)... and find a POT with a variance that is "in that ballpark".
After that, it's just a matter of finding exactly what is "no sound", and what is the MAX you want it at. Just be careful not to allow TOO much power through to the speaker... or it may destroy it.
And (as if that isn't enough) differing boards will work differently. The Hasbro may not pump out enough juice to have you be CONCERNED with sending out "too much power". I don't know.
But... it *IS* some work / tinkering to do! Plus another knob/button to mount.
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