UltraSound 2.0 After upgrade..

[John]

Anyone any idea when the 2.1 boards will be on tcss site to buy? Are we talking days or weeks? I'm dying to get my hands on one

[Eandori]

No offense Eandori because I know you know far more about this than I ever will but looking at that diagram I'm wondering again if it might just be easier/simpler to just convert regular TCSS momentary or latching momentary switches by disassembling and mounting a tactile inside as there were threads about here and on FX-sabers when this problem first emerged with the US 2.0 months ago.

That is assuming that the tactile switches sold here that worked before the upgrade still work well now after the upgrade?

If Strydur were to make some tactile-converted standard switches for use with the US2.0/2.1 I guarantee I'd buy several.

LOL no offense taken! I don't know why anybody would assume that since I posted an electrical solution to bouncy switches that I would be "against" other forms of working around the problem.

If any users wanted to use a special high end switch that lights up or something like that, but it has lots of ringing, then one of the solutions mentioned here would work. If you would prefer to mount a small tactile switch inside another one, well that's also fine!

Cheers,

[Logan Cade]

Personally, I’d like to thank Eandori for coming up with that solution. At this point any solutions/info will be of help to all of us who have one of these boards.

I’m still shaking my head about them not addressing the switch bounce problem. I couldn’t locate the post in a quick search, but I could have sworn the whole point of sending them in for the upgrade and paying the shipping back and forth plus the small fee was to at least address this issue in some way.

I keep reading over at FX Sabers how Ultra would never leave anyone hanging or not take care of any issues with their products. Has anyone come across an official statement concerning any of this yet?

[Strydur]

I ran into the bounce problem on the first batch but was able to get around it by de-bouncing the switch with a capacitor. The capacitor I used was monolithic ceramic capacitor (either 50 WVDC or 100 WVDC) with a value of 0.1 uF.





I used it on 2 different switches with no problems on either one.

I just got some of these capacitor's in today and I am glad to say that with one of our standard switches this solved the issue 100%. I have not tested a illuminated one yet but I will later. Without the capacitor the switch could never make it through setup and would lockup after 2-3 pushes of clash also. With the capacitor I went through setup twice and turned it on/off, clash, etc.. with no issues.

As far as the battery issues go..if you hook up all of your wiring and then pop the last battery in the pack..100% of the time it goes into boot just fine for me. If you have a crappy switch and it locks up the sound module yes you may still need to trip the batt connections a few time..but with a properly working switch there should not be any battery issues.

I will make some of these available to order as soon as I can finish testing.

[Kal El Rah]

Query,

Can/could this cap be soldered to the board also besides to the switch?

nobody asked this, that's why I asked.....................

[Dann]

Sounds great!

[Obi-Ben]

[best Chief Clancy Wiggum voice]
That's some good work, boys.

[Jedi-Loreen]

Query,

Can/could this cap be soldered to the board also besides to the switch?

nobody asked this, that's why I asked.....................

Even if it could be, I wouldn't recommend people doing that themselves. It's already hard enough for some to just solder the wires without damaging the pads on the boards.

I foresee more problems with people trying to solder the capacitor onto the boards, I think they would be better off putting it on the switch. It's a lot cheaper and easier to replace a switch, if you burn something on it.

[Onli-Won Kanomi]

You are right and I'd be one of those people...with my hand dexterity problems ordinary soldering is enough without trying something that delicate...as you say a switch is easier to replace.

[Strydur]

Ok..tested the illuminated switches and they work fine as well when using the capacitor.