Flashlight conversion kits and the "IQ" switch

[Storm Sunfire]

I have noticed a lot of kits for sale in the hardware store to convert your standard maglight into an LED flashlight. Among these is a kit with a switch that has a red blinking LED inside of a guarded rubber button. The switch looks cool so I got one thinking I would use it in my lightsaber. Once I connected the positive and negative, It turned my saber on, then off, then on, off, on, etc. I realised that I don't know what kind of switch it is! LOL.
It is incompatable with the hasbro board, but maybe I will be able to use it for a future saber that has the ultrasound card or *gasp* crystal focus.

The questions are:

First: what kind of switch is it? (Duh)
Second: what board would it be compatible with?
Third: would it even be worth it on a high end board like CF? or would it be better to have another switch?

[Jase Kala Maris]

Post a pick of it.

Post a pick of the wireing.

I have one stupid question also is it just going on and off or is it doing S.O.S.
---sometimes flashlights have that option and the driver cards are very small just curious about if the switch assembley has a card in it... the cards I've seen are almost that small.

[Lord Dottore Matto]

It will be a latching switch if it is for a flashlight.

[Storm Sunfire]

Here's a pitcher of the switcher...


It is meant to replace the endcap of a maglight...

[Ideal]

yeah, like LDM said, all flashlights use a latching switch. in fact, you will probably be able to hear it click on/off when you press the button

so no, you cant use it with a hasbro board, but to the best of my knowledge, both the CF boards and the US boards can be configured to use a latching switch

[Kant Lavar]

yeah, like LDM said, all flashlights use a latching switch. in fact, you will probably be able to hear it click on/off when you press the button

so no, you cant use it with a hasbro board, but to the best of my knowledge, both the CF boards and the US boards can be configured to use a latching switch

Hate to say it, but that is bad info. UltraSound requires a momentary switch. Right now, a latching switch is good only for is direct drive sabers and CF. (Well, you could wire the latching switch to be a main power switch wired through the battery pack itself, and then have a momentary switch wired to the US board, but I don't know why you'd want to bother, personally...)

[Tradeliphine]

also need latching for mr boards, dont leave out the staples man

[Ideal]

dont worry, next time i just wont bother

[xl97]

Hate to say it, but that is bad info. UltraSound requires a momentary switch. Right now, a latching switch is good only for is direct drive sabers and CF. (Well, you could wire the latching switch to be a main power switch wired through the battery pack itself, and then have a momentary switch wired to the US board, but I don't know why you'd want to bother, personally...)

huh?

maybe I dont understand?

but dont MR boards take latching switches?

dont corbin latching version boards take a latching switch?

doesnt the plecter dimmer (latching) take a latching switch?

what about the 616 boards? dont they also require a latching switch?

Ive never owned a CF board..but I thought they could use a momentary switch??

IMHO..there are MORE boards that take latching over momentary...no?

US board aside..the only board I can think of that takes a momentary is a Hasbro?? no?

thanks

[Storm Sunfire]

Hate to say it, but that is bad info. UltraSound requires a momentary switch. Right now, a latching switch is good only for is direct drive sabers and CF. (Well, you could wire the latching switch to be a main power switch wired through the battery pack itself, and then have a momentary switch wired to the US board, but I don't know why you'd want to bother, personally...)

You know, that's not a bad idea! I have been thinking about having a low profile "Hidden Switch" design so that only the owner of the blade could actually turn it on. I think Novastar has a video with XWingband where they have a saber that does that, but they don't explain how they did it. They leave it a mystery. That was kind of what I was thinking they must have done.

On a different note, My three year old threw a lightsaber at my beautiful HD LCD TV and cracked the screen. Nothing can be done to repair it that doesn't cost more than buying a new TV, so I bought a new TV and tore apart the old one. I now have a crapload of momentary switches and wire of all colors. I also have a huge sheet of durable plastic type plexi stuff to use as my work surface. (lightsaber practice no longer takes place in the living room...)