Thanks everyone. I will be working on this this weekend. I am converting a EL ROTJ Vader into a Seoul P4 Red with 3/4" blade. I just need to reassemble the parts and do the blade itself.
Scott
Thanks everyone. I will be working on this this weekend. I am converting a EL ROTJ Vader into a Seoul P4 Red with 3/4" blade. I just need to reassemble the parts and do the blade itself.
Scott
Success! Thanks for the advise guys. As soon as I complete the hilt, I will post pictures of the entire saber lit up.
Scott
wow nice tutorial jay gon. in my ultrasaber blades, i keep having problems with the film twisting inside. is there a way i can prevent this while using your method? like maybe hot glueing the top of the wrap near the tip as well? and also will it work good with tims TCSS battle blade diffuser or will it dim the light?
DJ... if you read through this thread--yes, the one you're POSTING in--you'll find that I mention gluing the film in, and so does Jay-Gon (or someone else):
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...8&postcount=20
So... ok, DJ. Honestly. THAT'S ENOUGH OF THAT GEAR-BLEACH. Start reading first. Like seriously. No more asking questions that are answered in the very thread to which you're posting... I'm serious. And hey... when in doubt... GIVE SOMETHING A SHOT ON YOUR OWN. Try something interesting or new and post the results if need be.
Now: None of us mind questions. New folks often accost TCSS forum posters of being "unfriendly", but... we just do not like it when people won't go through FIVE BLOODY MINUTES of effort to: do a search... do some reading... do some experimentation... or just use plain common sense.
Finally... a LOT of sabersmithing is a case-by-case thing. There IS no "right or wrong" method for many things regarding sabers. We give back by making attempts at things, and when successful... sharing or verifying results.
Last edited by Novastar; 04-07-2009 at 04:18 PM. Reason: included post that DJ missed...
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I've actually made 3/4" thickwall blades using a variation on the erv method. I sandblasted the inside of the polycarbonate, sanded the outside, and used a combination of corbin's film and gift wrap. I actually found out that beyond a certain point, more film makes the blade dimmer. In a 3/4" thickwall blade, that's after about 7".
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Excellent tutorial Jay. This is about how I pictured the process from all the text descriptions I've read, but a photo tutorial helps to make sure the process is completely clear before trying it.
And once again Nova demonstrates his Master-Fu.
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I simply never glue the film down. I cut the film to the exact length of the blade, so it sits on the bottom of the blade holder just like the blade does. The film won't move around, and you never have to worry about perma-crinkling again.
When using a thick walled blade, it's been my experience that the film will slide down into the uptic leaving a small unexposed gad towards the tip. I simply cut the film a slight bit longer than the blade in this case.
DUDE YES I KNOW YOU MENTIONED both sides of the blade. I READ THE WHOLE FRICKING POST!!! and you critize me about not reading and then you dont get why im asking the question!. i read the whole post and ask a legit question that relates to a similar topic but with a different reason OMG i am fully aware they glued the bottom and sometimes top as you suggested!!! i am addressing a problem as the film tends to twist inside the blade. and requesting an opinion on if that would work or not. im sorry if i upset all of you. i am just trying to have fun and converse with fellow starwars fanatics but it seems i have been making quite a few enemies. with fault of my own. so the goofyness ends here and i wont be getting on as often now.
Last edited by DJMoonbass; 04-07-2009 at 09:46 PM. Reason: uuugh
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