You know, to go along with the hum - could use a cell phone/pager or game controller vibration module when the saber is lit.
It's been like 2 years since I've posted, but I figured I'd drop a line anyway.
You know, to go along with the hum - could use a cell phone/pager or game controller vibration module when the saber is lit.
It's been like 2 years since I've posted, but I figured I'd drop a line anyway.
seems like some people have talked about using small motors and stuff to get the vibrating. i guess it just isnt that popular an item when building though, as it doesnt come up very often
It will also use up some power and make the batteries wear down sooner. You can get a 5 VDC motor at radio shack or any electronics store, and put a weight on one side of the motor shaft. This will make the shaft off balanced and make it vibrate.
Live long and...I mean May the force be with you. http://saberconcepts.50.forumer.com/index.php
many people have used pager type motors to do this...
they have also controlled the speed of the 'spin' during idle times & clash events..
its space and powering that come into play when deciding on using one..
I've done this on 2 sabers.
It is a great effect.
Erv sells the mini rumble motors at Plecter Labs
I wonder if there are other places to get them...
Time to GOOGLE!!
Got a Question? There's a thread for that...
~Do what you can, with what you have, where you are.~Teddy Roosevelt
SollusVir everywhere else... FXsabers, Youtube, etc...
I tried experimenting and hooking one up to a hasbro board. It did not seem to work at all so I am re-thinking the strategy.
The Flange III sabers have had motors ever since they had CF v2.61 back in... uh... like 2007 or something.
A few tips on this (since it was asked about):
* Add an on/off switch to your motor line. ESPECIALLY if you are not using CF or the US board (+ tapping into the LED output). You'll thank me later.
* Make certain to affix the motor to the HILT in some fashion. ESPECIALLY if you have motion sensors involved with your saber. Mount it as far away from the electronics board as you can--wherever possible.
* Be careful not to ground the motor, as it is made of metal, and when you mount it to a metal hilt... you get the idea. Make sure it has a rubber shield and that the motor itself stays unobstructed.
* If you're using CF or US... wire up a temporary (or permanent!) POT for the motor. Test the motor WHILE IT IS BOLTED TO THE HILT (not so much "free and jumpin' around like a lima bean on crack")... adjust the POT until the motor is spinning with the "sweet spot" kind of rhythm that you like--preferably one that fluctuates with the current output of the LED on the board.
* If you're using CF or US... DO NOT tap into BOTH the + and - of the LED leads... only vampire it off positive... else you'll be "stealing" current from the line going to the LED itself.
I like 'em. They work pretty well. I wouldn't recommend them with anything else (at present) other than CF because of the way it can be configured to play with the current/brightness of the LED. Also... only certain ways you drive the light will make the motor REALLY act in a cool way.
If you have a "solid blade of light" going on... to me, it's almost pointless and annoying to have a motor in there!
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~~ Balance of Power, EP I: "Into The Lion's Den"
~~ Balance of Power, EP II: "Ashes of The Phoenix"
~~ The Crystal Focus Sound CD Compendiums... are HERE! ~~
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I hope he doesn't mind me taking the liberty to link to his video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U7sf4sJyNr8
A bunch of us discussed this in the shout box a while ago.. The link to erv is most appreciated.
I'M JUST A SPY(LOL)
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