I just wish someone would put a post on how to wire in LEDs into a circuit, like a US2.0
There's a few diagrams around here somewhere, but it's really pretty simple....you wire it in parallel to the main hilt led for some applications, like if you want it to come on when the blade is activated....using the appropriate resistor on one leg of the circuit....I put them in the negative lead to the accent led. In my BS-14 saber that accent led is wired directly off the MR board's led leads that power the main led:
I have the negative lead for the accent led soldered to the header pin on the bottom of the board. It's the first segment of the original led strip to come on, and the last to go off, so the led is on the entire time the blade is on. If you wanted to, you could add 5 more to the other segments, using a common positive, and have your very own scrolling led sequence using your MR board.
For this application, I had a voltage of 6 volts (I checked it with my multi-meter) and my led was the same type as the accent led's Tim has in the store, that have a forward voltage of 2.1 volts, 20ma of current, so using the resistor chart I would need to use a 1/4 watt, 220 ohm resistor. There is a formula for figuring out what resistor you need, and when I remember where I saw it, I'll add it to this post.
Last edited by Jay-gon Jinn; 03-15-2009 at 09:43 AM.
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It works the same, even without a soundboard, or with a regular Hasbro.
EDIT:
I should add though, that the leds' will not scroll unless you use an MR/Hasbro FX soundboard like the one in the pic in my last post.
Last edited by Jay-gon Jinn; 07-10-2009 at 05:30 PM.
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Sounds simple enough! I guess the hard part is picking the right looking LED for the hilt and figuring out where it will fit and exactly where to put it.
I just hope I can fit the US2 combo pack, an accent LED, and all the rest of this into one 5" fluted section...
What's a "submini slider"?Originally Posted by Kant Lavar
I just hope I can fit the US2 combo pack, an accent LED, and all the rest of this into one 5" fluted section...
It's a small sliding switch. It looks like he's using it as a kill switch so that no power is still going to the board even after the saber is shut off.
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J-Lo got it in one, as usual. My plan is to mount the switch somehow (Super Glue?) on the inside of the saber on the back of the SPST momentary button. Then the accent LED will tell me if I forgot to turn the damn thing off, and I get at least some of the same benefit of removing the batteries or inserting a kill key into the recharge port without having to actually pry the batteries out. That, and it'll make resetting the board much easier.
I remember one time back in '64 when I wired 7 accent LEDs in one hilt and ran everything from the MR board and had a nice ramp effect and the P4 was bright too, dagnabbit those darn kids today, not usin' them accent LEDs...
isnt the lightsaber you are talking about here that really hella awsome blue one with the yellow blade? that thing is soo sleek looking
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