MR Mace saber Not sure what to do with?

[nemik]

Okay so I got mys parts today... I was looking at the internals of the mace saber and I realized that I would have to rebuild the casing for the board and relocate the button in order to do what I was thinking completely doable but not sure if it's worth the work.

As for my other brand new never touched mace saber I was thinking of getting some super bright LEDs and replacing the stock ones so it would be 3-4 times brighter, or I may still sell it on ebay or something and use the money to buy an MHS which I really want.

Which reminds me I customized one of those MHS sabers, the other day it was going to be over 200 bucks without any electronics in it, damn they are expensive! I did manage to customize some cheaper ones too but didn't like them as much

[nemik]

Okay so I got my leds and I put them in my Mace saber, but I am sorely disappointed... It is not very bright at all in fact it is a whole lot dimmer than the MR vader red saber which isn't very bright at all.

I using a White Cree XR-E Q5 3.7 forward volt 1000Ma Led equivalent to the Seoul P4 U-bin and I also have TCSS Red Lux III that i tried and neither of them seem very bright.

I am using the MR blade that came with the saber which is the only thing I can think of that would be the problem. I already removed the Foam insert and I sanded the outside of the PolyC blade in a circular pattern, but I haven't yet installed the TCSS Film I got form saber shop yet.

Is there something I am doing wrong here or could it be my MR board causing the problem. The Cree LED is rated at 260Lm but realistically gets about 220Lm from reports, but doesn't seem that bright

[eastern57]

If you don't have a medium to "carry" the light (blade film) it will not be as bright.

and btw, a red lux III needs more current.

[LAN-ED-TUL]

never had any issues with any MR converts i did.

[nemik]

I don't know how much voltage is supplied by the MR board but the Cree LED only need 4 volts and there are 6 batteries in it so it is 9v source, but again I don't know how the board is supplying to the LED.

I know the Lux III needs more but I decided to go with teh White LED instead so I can change the color

There isn't anything wrong with it per say but I am just a little disappointed that it is not as bright as the pictures posted on the forums here.
It looks fine it the dark though and as soon as I get the TCSS film in there I'm sure it will be better.

I'll post pics when I can.
Thanks for all the input

[eastern57]

If it's an MR board then it's fine. That 6 cell battery pack dosen't supply 9v, it's two 3-cells run parallel - 4.5v but twice the runtime. And you probably have it set up just fine... pictures can be misleading and deceiving.

[Rabidus Phasma]

ui am looking for a MR MACE lightsabre pm me if you still have it

[nemik]

Okay well I put the defuser film in and I am a little more satisfied with it then i was before, it's still sporting the MR blade but not too bad. Anyway I posted some pics with an orange blade for Halloween and the MR Vader side by side.

I really like the orange color and I carried it around down town on Halloween night when I went out with some friends. There was this kid at the restaurant, about 8 I'd say, in a Walmart Vader costume, looked pretty good surprisingly and when He saw me ignite that baby I saw his face light up right with it.

Just a note; don't drink and saber fight! may cause dumbness! You have been warned!

ui am looking for a MR MACE lightsabre pm me if you still have it

I still have both of them one is Brand new in box never been touched by human hands and the other is in the pictures I posted below which I converted to a Cree Q5 white LED with orange and purple filters.

If you are interested in my mace saber PM me with an offer.


I tried to get as close to what you'd see,bnut I'd say it's a little brighter otherwise the middle wouldn't show up on fil, so I got it as close as I could.

[nemik]

Hello again guys I decided to show what I did for the conversion of this saber, I'm not sure what everyone else did but I didn't exactly follow the conversion instructions so I am coing to show you guys the couple of differences I made internally.

Blade Holder - Drilling & Tapping
Okay the first thing was that someone told me that the milled aluminum piece from the conversion kit was very flimsy so when drilling holes in the aluminum you should take a piece of Poly C tube and place it in the blade holder.

What I did was take the piece I cut off teh master replicas blade and wrapped a piece of electrical tape around it and then shoved it down inside the blade holder. You want to make sure that it is snug and tight otherwise it defeats the purpose. I realized this when I was drilling the first hole the aluminum started to bend a bit, it is very thin, so this should keep that form happening. (Sorry I don't have any pictures of this cause I forgot to take them.)

Plastic MR Carrier
With the plastic carrier when I cut it down I decided to keep some notches at the end so that when put inside it would connect to the sides of the metal blade holder once installed.

I did this so that I could take the saber apart easier and also there is no need for the set screw under the grip, which you can still put in if you want. I am thinking of modding this further by putting an allen set screw and a small pin sized hole so that I can actually screw it in further into the housing instead of having to take the screw out. (pic below of this)





The last thing I did was remove the plastic battery sleeve from inside the grip, I am debating on whether I want to make a metal from a sink tube or just cut the notch off the end. The reason for this is so that I can take the saber down easier and get to the electronics and LED housing without having to take the whole saber apart.



When you do this the saber will come apart in these sections and there is less time to take apart about 1-2 minutes to get the led out and change if you want in my case I just change the filter color.

You simply just remove the battery holder and the button and you can get to the led. I also added some extra-long wires to allow for the MR board housing to be removed.