Need a good how-to for wiring a hasbro board with Lux III and buck puck

[ThreeQuadFive]

Ok, though I feel bad kinda double posting (maybe its not really double posting) I think it might be good to get a single thread here to use as a reference to wiring up the following (as I'm 100% clueless and haven't been able to piece it all together on my own, and really want to do my wiring and soldering this week)...

Here is the setup I have...

1 - Lux III blue led

2 - 1000ma buckpuck

3 - Hasbro sound board from Obi Wan Force Action lightsaber

4 - the 4AA battery pack from here as well

I've referenced the schematics from this thread:
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...read.php?t=372

But I still can't/haven't gotten a real answer on what the wiring setup should be..

Here are the major questions I have:

1 - From the hasbro to the buck puck, which connectors get soldered?

2 - from the buck puck to the LED, which connectors?

3 - Is it ok to swap out the 3 AA holder with the 4AA holder to drive the whole thing?

4 - Can I use the existing momentary switch off the hasbro to do the job, or do I need a DPDT? If I need a DPDT how do I wire that?

Thanks for the all the help, I really appreciate it.
I'm going to document the whole wiring procedure as I do it with pics and video as a friend of mine asked me to, plus I think it'll help out other newbs like myself when it comes to this sort of a setup. A bit different than simple EL

[ThreeQuadFive]

Ok, so from doing more and more searching and scouring of this forum, and online..

It looks like the wiring should go this way (as per: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ead.php?t=3621)

Red (vin +)-------------------(+) hasbro led out pos
black (vin -)-------------------------(-) hasbro led out neg
white (LED +)-------------------------(+) LED
blue (LED - )--------------------------(-) LED
yellow (ref) -----dont need to use
grey (clt) -------dont need to use

If thats correct that I pat myself on the back (also thanks to armonfire from the other post ).

So the other question then remains...if that above wiring is correct, then the momentary switch should be ok, as the hasbro is on until it's pressed again, right?

And another question...how come the lux star heatsink (the round one) doesn't come with nylon screws? Know how hard those are to get around here even from Home Depot and Loews?

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Tim sells those screws in the store, but you're right, it probably should come with them.

[vargose]

Ok, so from doing more and more searching and scouring of this forum, and online..

It looks like the wiring should go this way (as per: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ead.php?t=3621)

Red (vin +)-------------------(+) hasbro led out pos
black (vin -)-------------------------(-) hasbro led out neg
white (LED +)-------------------------(+) LED
blue (LED - )--------------------------(-) LED
yellow (ref) -----dont need to use
grey (clt) -------dont need to use

Does running the buck puck off the board like this work? How does the buck puck supply the full 1000ma current, or would it? I didn't think the board put out that much.

I am just confused, and was hoping for some clarification

[ThreeQuadFive]

I basically ran the buck puck off the hasbro board just to get a simple config up and running.

The hasbro doesn't put out near enough voltage as it should, but the buck kept it steady at least..more experimnetal but hey, now I'm waiting on my Ultrasound which will drive it properly.

[DarthFender]

Does running the buck puck off the board like this work? How does the buck puck supply the full 1000ma current, or would it? I didn't think the board put out that much.

I am just confused, and was hoping for some clarification

I think you're right. RUn + and - to your batter and CTL and REF to the LED out on your hasbro board. You will need a kill switch for the set-up tho because the Hasbro and the puck together will drain your batteries even when it's idle.