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Heh, I was planning on trying out the tri-rebels myself so last week I ordered the pcb and a few of the red rebels. I plan on using the $20 desoldering iron mod to make my own hot air gun to solder the rebels.
For power I got two 18650 2400 mah ultrafires and the protection board and fuse to build my own battery pack. Since I will only be running in 6V I plan on using the rebels in parallel instead of series. Also using 6V because I plan on putting one of the ANH MR FX sound boards I have in the hilt.
For reflector I am using one almost similar to the one you listed. But it fits in a 1.5 " hilt. Still needs to be modded because I plan on putting this in a 1.25" hilt. Some parts of this hilt is only 1" wide so thats where the batteries will go. The sound card will be in the pommel with the big hasboro speaker.
I already ordered everything last Tuesday so it should be in anyday now. Gonna be putting all of this in my curved almost dooku saber.
I'll post some pictures when I can get a working digital camera going.
Last edited by MoonDragn; 10-27-2008 at 05:26 AM.
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was the 25 degree optics a failure for the rgb? was there any potiencial?
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yeah total failure for me at least. It was too diffuse. the light flared at the base and didn't quite reach the tip.
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so it just didnt color mix very well?
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No, the color mixed just fine. But the 25 degrees lens spread the light too wide, so there was not enough of it to reach the end of the saber.
I was using a thick ultra blade at the time too.
I think with a normal reflector it would have been fine.
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Council Member
Right, a "25 degree" lens is a bad idea (almost no matter how you slice it) for the purposes of an LED saber. Even if the blade length is "short" (say < 30"). Which I think would defeat the purpose of bothering with something as complex as Rebels, RGB, etc.
In general, the lenses can't really be much more than "10 degree" if you want it to work well. In general.
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