It's nothing special design-wise, but I think everyone here who knows me understands I don't like junk sticking out of the hilt, and I don't have ANY allegiance to being "film accurate" with a saber hilt.

I like to make short hilts (read: 9" to 11")... with nice forward hand "choke points" wherever possible... with rubber emitters/pommels to lessen "dropped saber shock"... with decent brightness... and still try to pimp out the hilt as best as possible with sound, resonance cavity, 36mm (or greater!) high-quality speaker, etc. etc.

If you want it ALL... this is the best I can come up with.

Here's my new Plecter board (v1... no jam--yet!) saber with a K2 green powered by 7.2v Li-Ion. I'll post more photos later, as I messed up the batt pack by doing something stupid--using a METAL kill switch. Avoid that, please. Learn from my dumb mistake... I did.



Manipulating the saber is fantastic. Best choke point on a saber yet. Well.. for me. Very bright K2 green, looks good with any diffusion, lockup trigger button is in the PERFECT place, and finally I've made a saber that is a snap to take apart and repair should anything go wrong...