Hello from inSANe DIEGO... by the Sea

[Archangel_Gregory]

So hello all...
I am new here as you can guess. I've been bopping around the TCSS Site for a few months and purchased my first design in march with a lot of answers from Tim. He kept telling me to check the Forums for answers, what I didn't know was I didn't even know the questions yet. This is the List for my first saber:

Status:Completed
Items
•1 of: Pommel style 3
•1 of: MHS ribbed extension
•1 of: 7" Fluted with standard style switch hole
•8 of: 1-3/16" ID Black O-ring
•1 of: 4AA Battery holder
•1 of: 16mm Anti Vandal Momentary Green Ring Switch
•1 of: Screw on LED blade holder style 10 "new style"
•2 of: 12 Colored Discs
•1 of: Rebel Star LED & MHS Heatsink Module
•1 of: MHS choke style 3
•1 of: Choke Powder Coating (CH31)
•1 of: LED Trans White Battle blade 1" OD (38 inches)
•1 of: Main Body Powder Coating (DFS2)
•1 of: Pommel Powder Coating (PM31)
•1 of: 1ohm 5w resistor
•1 of: 150ohm 1/4w resistor
•1 of: 2.2ohm 5w resistor
•1 of: Bezel for illuminated switches
•1 of: 8-32 x 1/4" Set screw
•1 of: 8-32 x 3/8" black button head screw
•1 of: Drill & Tap Hole (8-32)
•1 of: Machine AV switch hole

I think it looks really good but I might be a bit biased. The hilt is long to emulate a Katana but shortens in a twist. The soldering, is horrible but that will be fixed as I change it. I guess I didn't understand Tims diagram on how to hook up the momentary av switch because the ring on it doesn't light up at all.
I knew nothing of the sound cards but after looking around these forums I think I am going to go with the el cheapo hasbro $20 "obi wan" saber card. I will change out the switch to possibly a "MOMENTARY" switch to "activate" the sound card/saber and a "LATCHING" as a "KILL SWITCH". I am running a 4AA box and I also learned, if I put a speaker holder on the battery box then it shouldn't be bouncing around in the hilt. I use a white Rebel LED With the 12 pack of color filters. It's way cool so far but I have nothing to compare it too.
I do have a few questions:

1. This is an advanced question, I think. Can you use a LATCHING switch as a substitute for a KILL SWITCH. "Latching" would kill the power in the off if it was wired in correctly LIKE a kill switch, yes?
2. Is there a NEWBISHLY simple diagram for wiring the AV Switches? I chopped mine up.
3. Difference between Buck Puck and Resistors. Can I change LED's without changing resistors or buck puck? Buck Puck seems better...

Lessons I learned the hard way. Getting a 10$ soldering station (With clips and clamp "third hand") is worth it to save skin and do better work. Should have known the difference between momentary and latching switches, yup. Looking at ALL tutorials is worth it before you start (Forgot about tinning!). Be careful of the edges... Some sabers can cut!

A second saber is for my son and we will both be taking them with us to COMICCON in San Diego in July. Any ideas or suggestions are welcome. I even have a few pictures.

Thanks for your time,

Grey