Ok, i see.Originally Posted by ecko
That would be a power regulator for Luxeon III provided by the company in the description of the vid (i do not know if i'm able to mention that name here). However, there is also the possibility to use a resistor as you can see in the vid of the custom saber shop channel. Both work fine.
And then there is the possibility of waiting for a new type of sound board like Onli-Won Kanomi mentioned.
"A Jedi Master always said this to each of his students before their first lesson: Cross an unfamiliar river without first discerning its depths and shallows, and you will drown in its currents without reaching your goal. Being a Jedi is no different. Identify the pitfalls and learn the proper path, or you fail the Order and sacrifice yourself to no good purpose."
is it ok not to use thermal tape? or is it a must? will i fry something?
I'd say its a must. LED's always need to stay as cool as possible. It will function without tape, but the lifespan of you main LED will probably be a lot shorter.is it ok not to use thermal tape? or is it a must? will i fry something?
"A Jedi Master always said this to each of his students before their first lesson: Cross an unfamiliar river without first discerning its depths and shallows, and you will drown in its currents without reaching your goal. Being a Jedi is no different. Identify the pitfalls and learn the proper path, or you fail the Order and sacrifice yourself to no good purpose."
O.K. i will have to order some hehe thanks for the help.
No problem, good luck with your saber.O.K. i will have to order some hehe thanks for the help.
"A Jedi Master always said this to each of his students before their first lesson: Cross an unfamiliar river without first discerning its depths and shallows, and you will drown in its currents without reaching your goal. Being a Jedi is no different. Identify the pitfalls and learn the proper path, or you fail the Order and sacrifice yourself to no good purpose."
Awesome video! One of the best I have seen!
Hello people,
last weekend i've upgraded previous saber. Here's the vid :
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i0XH6PghRUU
Build log :
I started the build with the idea of running the rumble motor directly from the L1/L2 solder pads on the US 2.5 pcb. For some reason this did not work because of a major voltage drop as soon as i connected motor to the US 2.5 pcb. Either L1 or L2 did not work. So i had to rethink my strategy for the rumble motor and decided to wire it directly to the main voltage supply after the kill-switch. This way it starts rumbling as soon as i unplug the kill switch. Not my original idea, but a decent solution nevertheless.
Secondly, i now had 2 choices for illuminating the red ring on my DPDT momentary switch. I decided to go with the L1 on the US 2.5 pcb. L1 mimics the main LED on the switch. L2 gives it a idle flashing mode. The LED can be wired directly to the pcb so no resistor needed here.
Cramming all of this new wiring in the same hilt prooved to be a new challenge and i had to create some new space in the same saber somehow. I decided to do this with cutting down the threading on the pommel and adding an extra O-ring on the pommel part (I gained about 5 to 6 mm extra space with this). This way the battery/speaker combo could remain the same and everything remains duel worthy. Keeping it duel worthy somehow was my goal from the very beginning.
No more heat shrink. Got a lot of comment to avoid heat shrinking US 2.5 pcb due to possible overheating, so i decided to invest in a hot glue gun which opened up new possibilities. The US 2.5 pcb sits sturdy on the battery pack and the main contacts are hot glued also to prevent short circuiting just in case it should come off somehow. Hot glued the speaker wire to the battery holder for a cleaner look too.
The rumble motor was hot glued inside the choke as well with it's moving part facing towards the main LED. I also decided to use some hot glue on the fragile connections of the motor for extra strength. The rumble motor sits sturdy inside the choke part. Only thing to keep in mind is that when i got the main LED in place, i had to turn it so there were no touching wires to the moving part of the motor. I did it while having batteries in place and the kill-switch unplugged. This way i knew when it was touching wires (no harm done, the motor just stops turning). Placing the lens holder and emitter was done right after that.
Greetz
"A Jedi Master always said this to each of his students before their first lesson: Cross an unfamiliar river without first discerning its depths and shallows, and you will drown in its currents without reaching your goal. Being a Jedi is no different. Identify the pitfalls and learn the proper path, or you fail the Order and sacrifice yourself to no good purpose."
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