too much cram and not enough fu

[B5813]

That's really not a bad lesson learned. You can plan out all you want but fitting it into the hilt is the only way to fully see how it's all going to come together. You're not the first to want to add on either after things have been cranking away. I've only ever done one chamber setup that came together flawless the first time through. I believe it was because I only did the work when my creative genius was at its best.

[sithlordfaust]

I struggled for a while with building sabers with removable batteries. the extra wiring room without making the saber too long, enough wire to remove but not too much so they are kinked or wrap around other components.

once I went in hilt recharge I never looked back. now I start off with a piece of PVC the length of the inner part of the hilt and cut to fit the electronics.
Im able to use minimal wire and keep it all nice and compact. then I just slide the (for lack of better word) "chassis" in the hilt and connect any wires to switches. so much easier.

Ive use Li-Ion 18650s and 14650s (just a tad longer than 14500s)
and I get more runtime than I ever did with the AA or AAA.
if you are using an FX or US board you can even use just 1 Li-Ion
with a Lux 3 led. you can either rock the 1 Batt and have mad space or use 2 or more in parrallel and get MAD LONG runtimes.

my $.02

[astromech_kuhns]

dont be afraid to completely rewire it, unsolder all the things and make the wires shorter and what not as well as make it not so jumbled, it will fit if you work it im sure. a nice chassis wouldn't kill either. keep up the efforts and it will work out.

[Crystal Chambers]

Thanks for all the support and advice...

This weekend I found a new way to pack the electronics in. I'm using film cases still, but taking more time to slice, layer, glue, and cut them to make a nice sled.

The choke made the sled design difficult for some time but now I have a solution which should work really well and slide up the pommel and even into the choke.

[Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie]

Novastar made a suggestion once, and I've been doing it ever since.

When you are in the beginning stages of your planning, measure your components and make cardboard mock-ups. It's an easy way to see in 3D how everything will fit together.

[Jordandau]

I've been using the insides of paper towel rolls. Just the get design and length ideas.

[Crystal Chambers]

parts is one thing but then the wires too..room to pull on and stuff in disconnects or areas where you need to counter twist and twist back wire to assemble MHS.

I think my sled design is really coming together and I'll try to take pics before it's assembled to make some type of build log. I kinda slacked on the hilt for pics. The whole thing went through so much evolution that I was focused on it and forgot to take pics. Once I explain how things are done it should be easy enough to visualize to the process once I post sled and finished hilt pics.

[Crystal Chambers]

ok...sigh

I should first mention that my initial bench test appeared flawless and went smoother then I imagined. However due to space issues I had to switch from AA to AAA.

So!

I'm done messing around with these stupid source/radioshack battery holders. I had everything running and it seemed fine. Space issues resolved, yet the batteries weren't getting a good connection and kept cutting out. It took me 3 hours to figure this out!

On top of this I was randomly getting the occasional strange noise like clash and boot beep noise combined....and not only that but light and no sound or vice versa, and even a short hissing noise, all of which would go away once I inserted and removed the killkey. Just strange stuff. I can't imagine how considering all wires were hot glued to the sled to prevent movement. It seems like the more issues I solve the more arise and I'm continuously getting more frustrated. I think most people in my shoes would have thrown it across the room by now but I'm too stubborn and won't let it get the best of me.

Now I have to wait for a new TCSS battery holder which will take up to a month considering I'm getting PC on my next order. Oh and to top it off I broke the outer casing off my recharge port...it seems to be fixable as nothing appears damaged just apart but I almost cryed in frustration.

Once again my electronics are in pieces and I'm waiting for a replacement part.

I started this process at the end of oct and I'm loosing my mind. Once this is complete any future builds will be made as easy as possible by avoiding chokes and reducing battery space. At least for a while. I'm confident that once I finally finish this ...Argh!..(insert extreme profanity here)...that I will have one of the sweetest and original first saber builds by someone who has no previous electronics or machining experience.

Sorry to be such a bummer and thanks to everyone who's been reading and been supportive. I'm sure it will all work out...eventually but I need to focus on something else till I have what I need to ..make another attempt..




Oh...the strange behavior of my US 2.5 has me a bit worried if anyone has any idea why and what this means as well as fixing a recharge port that has the outer piece pulled off it might help to ease the tension...thx

[cardcollector]

Well, I was feeling the same way a few months ago, but when everything is fixed up and put together. You'll see the frustration will always be worth it.

The first saber is always the hardest (and most expensive).

I would say good luck... but "In my experience there is no such thing as luck..."

[Jedi-Loreen]

A battery loose in the holder can cause the US board to keep rebooting.