2nd Lightsaber - First with Sound

[Hageshii01]

Greetings everyone.

I've decided to begin work on my second lightsaber project (well; technically my third). My first saber was a stuntsaber; light but no sound. The second saber was one for a friend; he designed it and I assembled it for him (it was also a stuntsabor). For this build I would like to include sound in my design, and acquired a Mace Windu MR FX soundboard for just that.

I'm posting for two reasons:
1) To list the parts I believe I need and see if you, the veterans, can tell me if I'm missing anything (I don't want to screw up, of course).
2) To ask a few questions regarding the build that I'm a bit confused on.



So, on to the first reason; the list of parts.

- MHS Blade Holder style 18
- 8-32 x 1/4" button head screw
- Double ended male threaded connector
- 1.2" Double Female
- Hilt style 2 with guarded style switch hole
- MPS Pommel style 7
- MPS Insert style 6
- MPS Clip for Pommel
- DPDT Latching green illuminated switch
- Bezel for illuminated switches
- 8-32 x 13/32" Black Thumb Screw
- 1-1/2" x 12" Chrome sink tube
- Black machined button for Covertec clip
- 8-32 x 1/4" socket head
- Necessary powdercoating orders

- MR FX Mace Windu soundboard
- MHS speaker and battery holder
- 2 Wire quick connector
- Extra wire; just in case
- Necessary heatshrink
- I plan on either reusing the green Seoul P4 LED I already have installed in my stuntsaber or ordering another LED with the Seoul P4 Electronics Kit; probably the former.

I already have a tap and drill set for the 8-32 screws.

And a render of the saber in question, and as you can see it is heavily based on Qui-Gon Jinn's design. The total length will be 11". The covertec clip button is not there because I haven't decided where I want it yet.



So... what am I missing or what did I get wrong, because I'm sure there's something I've missed.


So on to part 2; the questions.

I plan to wire everything similarly to how Jay-gon Jinn wired his CS-21 saber, and did not notice a resistor for the illuminated switch (which I will also be using). I'm confused because every other thread I read says that a resistor is needed for the illuminated switches. Is this not needed for an FX soundboard?

Will the 1-1/2" sink tube fit over the powdercoated MHS parts, because if not then that's a big problem for the design.

Finally a conundrum; I got the Mace Windu board off an eBay auction. However, it did NOT come with the multi-wire plug that I see in all other builds; it has the insert for that plug on the board, but the wires themselves are not there, so I do not see how I will be attaching the LED to the board. Does anyone know of a place where I can purchase one of these plugs?



Thank you for your time; any help you guys can give me would be appreciated.

[Rafalema]

Im not an expert, but I did not have any sorts of plugs when I ordered my MRFX board from ebay. I think that if you want one, you must put it yourself. I only soldered all LED -'s together tough..

And, I've heard that 1.5 sink tube won't fit over powder coated parts unless you have asked Tim to machine the parts OD's just a little smaller

[Hageshii01]

When I say plug I mean the mass of wires that connect the LED and board together; the one where you have to connect a bunch of the wires together for the LED- and one wire for the LED+. You didn't have that either?

Fortunately the seller just responded to my question and is sending a replacement my way.

As for the 1.5 sink tube, I'll be sure to ask him if that is the case. Does he charge extra for that?

[Rafalema]

I think he will charge at least a little.
I still do not understand about the plug.. :I

[Hageshii01]

I apologize; I'm calling it a plug because I really have no idea what else to call it.

Look in that picture I have at the bottom of the first post; the part of the soundboard I circled with the rainbow of wires; that did not originally come with the soundboard when I bought it; I had no wires for the LED.

Fortunately the seller IS sending that part to me.

[Rafalema]

Wow now I get it!

That's pretty big part to miss. Bad luck I guess.

[Hageshii01]

Unfortunately yes.

However I contacted the seller and he quickly replied and said that he had a spare part he would send to me, so that's all settled.

[Jay-gon Jinn]

I didn't use a resistor on the illuminated switch in Cs-21 because it was a different switch than what Tim sells now. The led in it was rated for 12volts, so I didn't need a resistor with it.

Also, the chrome sink tubing that Tim sells will fit just fine over a powder coated part, I've done it a few times myself.

You also don't need that wiring harness connector to be able to use that soundboard. since it has a separate one for the clash and the motion sensors, all you need to do is remove that plastic plug, and solder wires in it's place.

[Hageshii01]

I see, but since the seller will be sending the wiring harness connector (awesome; an actual name for me to use) I can use it if I prefer; correct?

So, assuming that I put together a quick wiring diagram of what I believe I'm supposed to do. I decided I'd like an LED indicator in place of where I have that thumb screw (it was cosmetic only), so that'll be included.



I feel like this is wrong. I have the switch connected to the LED like that because the resistor chart showed me that setup, but how accurate that is.....

[Jay-gon Jinn]

Yes, you can still use the harness if the seller sends it to you.

The diagram is definitely wrong...your switch shouldn't be in the circuit for the main led....the switch wires from the board go only to the switch, and nowhere else. Wiring it like you have it will damage the board.

The wiring for the switch led looks right to me as long you are trying to have it come on with the blade led when the saber is activated.

The accent led can also be wired with the correct resistor by simply soldering the leads to the bottom pins for the plug header like so:

This works the same as you have it in the diagram, but it should clean up your wiring inside the hilt and make it simpler.