Dakarn's "Consilium Laurus" (Hasbro sound)

[Dakarn]

Well this is my first saber so I decided to do an "in progress" build log.

Consilium Laurus means Wise Victory (roughly) in latin, which I thought is particularly fitting for a Jedi.

The specs
Hilt style 2 with standard style switch hole
MHS Gear
Screw on LED blade holder style 12
MHS choke style 1 short
MPS Pommel style 7
1.5" Sink Pipe for shroud

Red/Orange Luxeon III LED
Orange Illuminated Momentary Switch
Hasbro Vader Force Action soundboard and sensors
4 AAA batteries

The wiring uses a Reed Relay to provide the proper voltage to the LED, using cardcollector's wiring diagram. (http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...8&postcount=31)

Since my MS Paint skills are pretty lacking here's a rough outline of what I'm doing:



I made the 1st cuts on the shroud today. Going to do some dremel work tomorrow and cut out the center sections which are the areas inside of the blue painter's tape marks.

Shroud 1 and 2 Pipes with the initial 30 deg cuts:


Shroud 1 Top View:


Shroud 1 Side View:


And this is my new Chicago 6" cut off saw from Harbor Freight Tool, $37 and can handle 1.5" pipe no problem even though the manual says it can only handle 1".


More up as I dremel out the outlined areas and then start the electrical work.

[Dakarn]

Finished the dremeling and rough sanding on the 1st shroud:







Just need to get some fine sandpaper and clean it up a bit. First dremel use I've done in about 6 years. The top U is a tad off so I may try to work on it more but I'm afraid I may just make it worse.

[xl97]

get some files or all sizes, shapes and grits..

this will help square and flatten areas out.

[cardcollector]

The dremel sanding disks are an invaluble tool as well!

[Dakarn]

I've actually sanded the areas out using the dremel sanding disks and fine grain sandpaper and its nice and smooth edge with no jaggies or sharpness - which is great since its the grip area. I just haven't updated the thread yet since I'm on hold.

I'm waiting until I get my order from TCSS because I think my length is off by a 1/2" (too long thankfully) so I want to test fit with the actual pieces before I make more cuts. I also have to find some 0000 steel wool and chrome polish since I used the extra fine sandpaper to clean up a scratch and ended up "spiderweb" scratching the chrome in one spot.

Might do some electrical work and prep the soundboard and relay setup so when I get the LED and illuminated switch it'll be ready to go. I'm tempted to hold off on this too since I don't want to have to redo it if its too long/too short.

I do appreciate the feedback and any other tips, suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[cardcollector]

You are being patient, that's good.
You are right...

Measure twice, cut once.

What color are you planning on making it? You mentioned a relay so I'm guessing you are going to use a Hasbro board right?

[Dakarn]

You are being patient, that's good.
You are right...

Measure twice, cut once.

What color are you planning on making it? You mentioned a relay so I'm guessing you are going to use a Hasbro board right?

Barely patient.

Its an orange/red Luxeon III and I'm using your diagrams with the Force Action soundboard, the relay and an illuminated orange LED switch. I may solder up some of it tonight or at least prep the board, mounting it up with the wires tinned and getting everything properly attached so I can add the LED, switch and speaker when they get here.

And a stupid question, what terminals do I hook up to on the DPDT momentary illuminated switch? I understand where to hook up for its internal LED but not getting where I should connect to use in my setup. Been reading around but I'm not understanding it.

[cardcollector]

Are you using an Anti-vandal switch?
If so there's a diagram somewhere...
I can't find it right now. Time for some search-fu...

[Dakarn]

Are you using an Anti-vandal switch?
If so there's a diagram somewhere...
I can't find it right now. Time for some search-fu...

Its the DPDT illuminate anti-vandal switch that's sold in the store here.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/DP...itch-P501.aspx

I'm not getting the diagram that's pictured there.

I understand where the LED hooks up but I'm not getting which posts to use and after reading several articles out there on the 'net about DPDT switches I'm still mystified. And my search-fu is weak when it comes to this topic.

[EDIT]
I think my search-fu improved - http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...-vandal+switch

So I need to hook to the NO1 and C1 posts, which is the normally open and closed posts.

Let me know if I'm getting it right.

[Jedi-Loreen]

No, the C is for Common. NO is Normally Open. NC is Normally Closed.

You always use the Common post. For our application, you want to also use the Normally Open post, since you don't want your saber on all the time except when you press the switch (like it would be if you hooked up the Normally Closed post).

Does that make sense?