Is a clash flash possible on a US 2.5?

[Blackshifter]

Hi there everyone! I am pretty new to saber building and a novice at electronics. A class I should have paid more attention to in high school methinks.

Anyhow I was wondering if it was possible to to make a clash flash on a US 2.5, rebel tri star and if so, what's the schematics? The users manual Xwingband's great guide just makes some vague reference to it and the user manual for US isn't very helpful either. Thanks!

[infa008]

I was wondering about this too. and got the impression that it could not be done and have been trying to get my hands on cf ever since while keeping us as an option.

[Do-Clo]

The answer is no

[Shadeslinger]

So has anyone figured out how this guy did it?

http://www.fx-sabers.com/forum/index...seen#msg343015

...or is it some scam?

[Sidd]

He might had some kind of additional LED driver set up with the US 2.5

[Jedi-Loreen]

He doesn't say he's got another driver, but if it was as easy as just adding a clash sensor to the amber LED die, then more people would be trying this. So there could be more to it.

[eastern57]

He's just using an economy clash sensor, and a 5v relay. I've tried it with a clash sensor from the store here, but it doesn't work too well. Maybe there's something about the different sensor that allows more contact and thus more of a amber to show.

Here's his blog entry:
http://yossh55.blog41.fc2.com/blog-entry-18.html

Can anyone read Japanese?
Maybe if

[Shadeslinger]

Hmm. If it was something like a clash sensor type hookup to an individual die, then it wouldn't necessarily "flash" in synch with a clash sound....but it'd still be a cool feature.

From my very limited knowledge on clash sensors however, they don't act as an on/off for current going to anything though? I mean, if you were to properly direct drive a led and put a clash sensor between the battery pack and the led it wouldn't do anything right? (except maybe fry the sensor?)

EDIT: Saw your post atf eastern.

[eastern57]

Hmm. If it was something like a clash sensor type hookup to an individual die, then it wouldn't necessarily "flash" in synch with a clash sound....but it'd still be a cool feature.

From my very limited knowledge on clash sensors however, they don't act as an on/off for current going to anything though? I mean, if you were to properly direct drive a led and put a clash sensor between the battery pack and the led it wouldn't do anything right? (except maybe fry the sensor?)

No it's not hooked up to the US 2.5, and you can see from his vid that there's a few times where the clash sound triggers, but the flash does not.

Really, all a clash sensor is, IS a switch. It's an electrical connection resulting from impact or hard movement. So you could actually make clash/flash without sound or driver.

edit: hehe stepping all on each other...

[Novastar]

Just to be sure this thread doesn't confuse people for later... for the record, "flash on clash" going THROUGH THE US BOARD (all versions current to present day)... isn't possible.

However... as you can clearly see... YES, doing it *NOT* through the board is indeed possible. Of course! LOL. You can--um--wire up any circuit you LIKE outside of another circuit.

Using a 555 timer would help one to set the "delay time" for a circuit to stay closed (aka allow current to flow to an LED pad) for enough time for the eye to catch...

And yup... to Eastern you listen... the little spring sensors ("Yusan" clash sensors) are simply switches. Alone, they just *BARELY* make contact enough to trigger an LED to flash though... so a 555 (or 556 if you wish) would help.

It's funny... I had been suggesting this kind of thing to Gravy and Don (Do-Clo) for many months in 2009, but with the FX boards. More specifically, we were trying with the MR-616s, but... I suppose it just became "over-complicated" to try pimping out MR boards with such things...

As an experiment, one could:

* Get an RGB or multi-pad LED
* Wire up a direct drive setup and light up your "main blade"
* When you have THAT working... add in another line to another pad/die on the RGB LED
* Add a spring sensor/switch (clash sensor) into that new line
* Turn your saber on and whack away... you should see a VERY VERY brief "glitchy" looking "flash on clash"

That's the simple version... then... you could work on getting the 555 timer in there to extend the time the "flash LED" pad or whatever you'd like to call it... stays on.

Hope it helps folks.