So, I've got the design, now what?

**enigma1337** · 11-22-2009, 07:24 PM

So it's been about a year since i've discovered tcss and i've finally settled on a design and color of the blade and more or less what i want to tweak about it.

but i need some help, ive searched the forums numerous times and i'd just like to see the info all together so i have a good reference area.

I can post the design that i settled on if you want (what img host site should i use?) and the color would be a Royal Blue LED, but (as im sure you all want) i want it very bright and a solid core. I assume with the amount of experience collected under this roof, you lot would be the best to give me suggestions--i mean once i get a good working saber i'll experiment with the different blades/filters/tips/diffusers/double/quad etc, but for now its getting there :P

such as power requirements/batteries/recharge port/ accent LEDs even ideas will be considered haha and i'll bounce some of you too

annnyywayyy that was a long post but i would be very grateful for the help

and to be a nice new saber engineering buddy

**Shadar Al'Niende** · 11-22-2009, 07:44 PM

You will have to give us a bit more to go off of, what type of LED are you planning on using? Direct drive? Sound? What is the approximate length, what do you plan on using it for? dueling? show? etc etc etc... post up a pic, explain what you plan on doing and then ask our opinion on it...otherwise, we don't know what to give you our opinion on

*edit* there are lots of image hosting sites, i use photobucket, but anything will do.

**enigma1337** · 11-22-2009, 09:47 PM

Ohh haha of course, i forgot to mention those, I was thinking K2, at least if K2 is the best royal blue led here, and really i dont know i guess i have some more homework to do and read up on butteredtoast, crystalfocus, US2.5 haha
yes sound

and maybe a little dueling but not much, and is there a height to length ratio or is it just personal preference?

here it is, and the sink tube is for an overlay i had in mind

**Jedi-Loreen** · 11-22-2009, 11:59 PM

Ok, first, you've got screws going into threads and so is that switch. You'd need to have that switch hole put in the center of that extension piece.

What are those 2 button head screws for? Your blade retention screw needs to be moved up away from the threads. Is that a read acetate screw on the side? What's that for? It's also in the threads of the blade holder and the choke.

Your Covertec button it upside down, but you'll figure that out when you actually have yours.

You can't just order a CF any time you want, they only come up for sale a couple times a year and they are gone in minutes, and the US 2.5s are out of stock. You'll need another solution if you want sound.

Try the new sleeve material that's in the Store, it's aluminum tubing that's thicker than sink tube for making shrouds.

Length is kind of a personal preference. My sabers are around 11".

Oh, and "buttered toast" and Crystal Focus (Saber Core) are the same things. You do need to do some homework.

**Shadar Al'Niende** · 11-23-2009, 07:21 AM

I would also add that depending on your internals, you will need a longer saber if you plan on keeping the v-grooved ribbed section. The ribbed section is only 1" ID and so you will have a hard time fitting batteries, soundboards, or anything really except maybe wires.

**Crystal Chambers** · 11-23-2009, 08:16 AM

Looks like a potentially nice looking saber. Not sure about the switch placement, acetate screw, switch, or holes next to it as J-Lo pointed out.

Also seems to me that you intend to use a sinktube/mhs adapter to mount an overlay. If I'm correct you may be missing a thread to connect your MHS. The adapters are only threaded on one side.
Sinktube adapters are usually used to mount blade holders to sinktubes and not meant to be used with sabers made from MHS end to end. Most overlays can be held in place with your blade retention screw, switches, or covertec. 1.5" sinktube will fit nice but the chrome will show brass on cut edges because it's chrome plated. The aluminum sleeve here is thicker.

I'm sure you meant blade length....From what I recall hilt sizes seem to range from 8" - 14". Shadar Al'Niende makes a good point that making sure you have space inside your hilt is key. You may find yourself needing to make compromises in your design to allow for the upgrades you want.

For the blade, I would suggest using a wooden dowel and seeing how long you're comfortable with keeping in mind that almost 2" will be inside the blade holder and if you like to twirl it, you don't want it to hit the ground.

Doing your research here really pays off. Sometimes the info your looking for is hard to find but you'll learn a lot while your searching.

**Jedi-Loreen** · 11-23-2009, 11:54 AM

Oh, that's a sink tube adapter, that explains the button head screws, I've never used one, or played with it in the MHS Builder. Then it really makes no sense putting that in the middle of a hilt. There are only threads on one end, anyway. I think he needs to learn how the parts go together and how do use them.

I didn't think about the smaller ID in the ribbed and V-grooved sections, because I've never used either of those in a build.

He could have meant hilt length, not blade length. But he'll have to tell us which he really meant.

**Shadar Al'Niende** · 11-23-2009, 12:25 PM

You could put a 4" or 5" double female extension between the choke and ribbed section. I personally like my sabers between 11 and 13 inches in length and so have not been able to successfully incorporate a choke and ribbed section in my designs...

**enigma1337** · 11-23-2009, 03:53 PM

Well the thing is, and you're all helping a lot, but. I just got excited because I got my design finished, so I need to read up more on the dimensions, more when I get back home (an MHS builder on iPhone would be a great app :P)

and about BT and CF I knew basically what they are, I just figured I'd get q better description

and I had looked on the site on how to use the sink tube adaptor since I didn't know how that's why it's in there like that

And as far as the screws going through the threads, if the two pieces are permanently affixed would that be fine? Since I'm new this could be a stupid question, but couldn't you also drill and tap a hole while two pieces are threaded together and use those screws, knobs, switches etc as a sort of locking pin

and i was wondering about both blade and hilt, but mainly the blade, and at 12.65 in I guess this is a semi-hefty hilt?

**Shadar Al'Niende** · 11-23-2009, 04:49 PM

And as far as the screws going through the threads, if the two pieces are permanently affixed would that be fine? Since I'm new this could be a stupid question, but couldn't you also drill and tap a hole while two pieces are threaded together and use those screws, knobs, switches etc as a sort of locking pin

This would tend to be more pain than its worth and the pieces will hold together just fine after being screwed together.

and at 12.65 in I guess this is a semi-hefty hilt?

I try to make all of mine between 11 and 13 which you will find is pretty normal, anything over 13 i would classify as on the hefty side