Inexpensive Thermal Detonator build

[Goltar Bias]

Ok can't take complete credit for this idea got the kick off from this thread but wanted to expand it.
http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ead.php?t=9421

As far as tools go you are going to need:
drill press
dremel or flex shaft
reinforced metal cutting disc for dremel
JB weld
metal files
soldering iron
solder w/resin core

Materials:
2-stainless steel ice cream scoops
1-1.25" electrical box adapter
1-1.5" aluminum screw and post connector
1-1.5" 8-32 socket head screw
3-5mm 3v yellow leds
1-5mm 1.7v red led
1-33ohm resistor
1-5 pack of 5mm led folders
1-12v red led assembly
2-n cell battery holders
2-n cell batteries
4-0.5mm tall tactile momentary switches
plastic material from making top switch
wiring

First here is the scoop i used it is made by faberware cost like 4 bucks.

Then cut the scoop off.

After you get the scoop cut off you have t remove the plastic that is attached to the scoop and a metal plate that is spot welded to the scoop that holds the plastic on.


After you get just the scoop you should file or sand down the spot welds the lay out the guide lines for the sectioning grooves you cut in with the dremel metal cutter as well as the notches along the bottom just be sure to cut high enough to remove the two holes in the scoop from the swing arm. In the second pic you see the holes i drilled as close to center on the top of each piece this will become important later.


Be sure that when planning the notches to remember the need to mirror each other top to bottom. *And label which is which* You may also want to trim down the protruding portions a bit.

Ok now for the electrical box adapter you need to cut it off just before the lip in front of the threads.

After cutting it off you would need to file it a bit to get it to fit into the scoop. Then just JB weld it in place. I suggest that you affix it to the bottom portion.

Now that one half is ready get the screw post and JB weld it through the hole in the center of the piece.(don't have pic of it from the inside, sorry)


Then use the 8-32 screw through the top hole and it should hold together like so.

Apology in advance no picks for wiring section or for switch makeing.
Need to drill 6 more holes for the leds, 3 in the center section for the yellows and one in top section about 2/3 of the way up to the screw for the red assembly piece.You won't use the assembly its self just the holder piece by removing the led and resistor inside it the just slip the red 5mm led in after you have it all wired up. And the another 2 holes in the back of the top to allow for switch wires to come out and a screw for holding on the switch body.
After that you need to wire up and solder together your leds and power supply. then run the wires out through one of the holes in the back.then through the switch body. I used one tactile switch to activate the leds and the other three are just for show. I made the switch body a two piece so I could cover the the main body screw with it.
Per recommendation i have added these 4 pics in the first is the switch body being separated to reveal the main screw. The second shows the battery pack made from 2 single n cell holders as well as the red led in the top section. The third shows the battery pack and the three yellow leds and the resistor for the red one. The last one is the bottom of the top of the switch showing the wires leading to the momentary which that turns it on. Should have taken these during construction sorry they aren't better.




i used a sharpie to turn the center section black and spray painted the led holders silver and the switch body black. And then this is what the result is.



last photo is with no flash it washes out the led but they can be seen clearly in a bright room. And the whole thing cost less then 50 bucks by the end.

[Nineteen]

Very nice, I like it. The next step, IMO, would be to "rust it up." Great job!

[Rhyen Skytracker]

Awesome job. I like it.

[Kal El Rah]

Excellent, just excellent, and a very nice tute too.

[Jedi-Loreen]

You should have taken pics of the electronics, though.

[mihunai]

Lookin' good!
The tutorial is nice, but a wiring pic. would indeed be helpfull.
It would show where the switch is, and where you managed to fit a battery
next to that 'core' holding it together.

mTm

[Jedi-Loreen]

That's why he used "N" cells, they're maybe 1/2- 2/3 the length of a AAA cell.

[mihunai]

N-Cells? Intersting idea...
That reminds me, can rechargable NiMh's be reloaded recharged while in the holder, without
blowing up or anything like the LithIons?

mTm

[Jedi-Loreen]

Do you mean recharged?

Rechargeable cells might be too long, which is probably why he went with N cells because they are shorter.

Otherwise, he probably would have gone with AAA or AA cells, since they are cheaper.

Remember, there's a post going through the center, so you couldn't put something longer inside it diagonally.

The only thing that would have made this better, to me, would have been if he'd been able to use a slide switch, instead of a tactile and had the whole thumb trigger able to slide back and forth.

That might be kind of hard though, not having the access to a prop department.

[mihunai]

That is my plan though...
And since mine wont have a center core (it just sounds better ),
I can fit a battery in there.
I allready successfully testfitted a double AAA holder.
So ill probably try 2 rechargeable AAA's in mine.
If they can be recharged 'in-hilt' to use a more popular term
.
There is this guy T_Bone on the FX forums that made a great Boush Bomb,
and a matching tutorial, which was the 'spark' that got me making mine,
which in turn made Goltar Bias make this one, apparently.

I am just waiting for a sheet of Stainless Steel to make the center section of,
and a not-so-rainy day so i can start dremeling the top slot for the slide-switch.

But lets stay to this Boush Bomb for now

mTm