Cylindrical battery case?

**Matt Thorn** · 11-01-2009, 06:54 AM

I could swear I saw a link to a cylindrical battery case, not unlike the Force FX cases, on the forums here a few months ago, and I thought I had bookmarked it, but I can't find it anywhere. I basically want to make a cartridge-like case pretty much like the Force FX sabers use. I have a couple of customers who don't want a rechargeable setup, but I've found that saber novices can easily break the connections with the kind of standard wired battery cases Tim sells. In short, I want to make an idiot-proof battery case. I thought of using battery cases from Force FX sabers, but while they will fit in a 1.5" sinktube, they won't fit into MHS parts or 1.25" sinktubes.

Hs anyone tried something like this, or seen a battery case that could possibly be modified this way?

Thanks in advance for any help.

**Matt Thorn** · 11-01-2009, 07:29 AM

Doh! It wasn't in my browser bookmarks; it was in my Mouser Project Manager.

Part number 12BH432A-GR, manufactured by Eagle Plastic Devices. Unfortunately, it holds only three AAA batteries. That would do for some projects, but not the ones I was thinking of.

I'd still appreciate if anyone could recommend similar holders for 4 AAA, 4 AA, or 6 battery setups.

**Ingchao** · 11-01-2009, 09:24 AM

I've got no help for you on the 4AAA front, but thanks for the Mouser link.
I've been buying some flashlights for like $2ea to snatch the same battery packs from.

Keep me posted. I'm interested to see if there's anything like what you described out there.

**Matt Thorn** · 11-01-2009, 04:23 PM

After looking at the specs, I realized that these cases, which have a positive contact on one end and a negative on the other, could be made to work just like those $2 flashlights, with a bit of ingenuity. Two of them on end are just 11.32 cm (about 4.46") in length, and the diameter is just 22.3 mm (about 0.88"). That would give you 7.2V, and fit into just about anything. I'm going to order a couple and see what can be done with them.

**cardcollector** · 11-01-2009, 05:14 PM

You have to add solder paste to get them to keep wires on the tabs...

Great idea on the 7.2 volts!

**Matt Thorn** · 11-01-2009, 05:47 PM

Originally Posted by cardcollector

You have to add solder paste to get them to keep wires on the tabs...

Great idea on the 7.2 volts!

Thanks. I'm thinking of making it a cartridge system. I would use a spring to make the positive contact. The tricky part would be figuring out how to make the negative contact without having the cartridge physically wired to the hilt. Whatever I end up doing, though, it will no doubt involve soldering at least on the negative contact, and that of course will require some sandpaper and soldering paste.

**FenderBender** · 11-01-2009, 05:59 PM

7.2? Only if you use 1.2v NiMHs. I thought you weren't going with a recharge set up? If you use alkalines it'll be 9v.

BTW, I use these all the time on our PVC stunts. They can bork REAL easy when trying to solder to them. If you get the tab too hot for too long it messes them up easy.

**Matt Thorn** · 11-01-2009, 06:11 PM

Originally Posted by FenderBender

7.2? Only if you use 1.2v NiMHs. I thought you weren't going with a recharge set up? If you use alkalines it'll be 9v.

BTW, I use these all the time on our PVC stunts. They can bork REAL easy when trying to solder to them. If you get the tab too hot for too long it messes them up easy.

Another "Doh" for me. You are correct about the voltage. I'll be careful when soldering. Thanks!