I was think with the thickness in some MHS parts it seems possible to countersink the MHS so it pulls the overlay into the countersink around the bolt so that bolts won't stick out as bad.
Anyone try this? Any thoughts?
I was think with the thickness in some MHS parts it seems possible to countersink the MHS so it pulls the overlay into the countersink around the bolt so that bolts won't stick out as bad.
Anyone try this? Any thoughts?
Huh??
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thats an idea but if you do that it will likely warp the overlay. If you use the aluminum overlay Tim sells you might be able to counter sink the overlay itself slightly (doesnt look that thick though so you would have to be really careful).
You can also use JB weld or another epoxy to hold it on and not worry about screws at all.
i tried this it doesnt work. since the sinktube is a TUBE, when you counter sink it it will give a slight oval shape. then since its not very thick at all you have to sink it alot and by the time you do only half of the screw head is slightly holding on to the sinktube and you have two edges of the hole showing. its just not meant to be. but lot of people like to hold there overlays in place uniqueliy. liek i ve seen fender hold his in with his LED holder.
then Do Clo used an AV switch to secure his.
theres no limit to how you can do it.
I second what $tarkiller says.
huh??
huh?...lol
Because the warping seems to be unpredictable I thought it might be possible that it could look ok if done right. But yeah, countersinking an overlay itself doesn't seem to be option at all.
Overall adapting features as multifunction in relation to structure seems to be idea. Kinda making things lock each other in. I think this one of the real challenges in saber design.
The JB wield sounds like it could be useful thought having your overlays removable in case you wanna change color powder coat etc. I would like to put overlays on top of overlays using it though. Repeating the same shape only smaller or any number of design ideas.
an easier way to do this kind of thing is to secure the shroud with parts that aren't obvious. To illustrate
I'm waiting for AV switches to come back to finish this one, but I'm done with the exterior for the most part.
As you can see there's no obvious bolts holding the sinktube down, the covertec clip I put in place of the bunny ears acts as both blade retention and holds the S-curved shroud down, the AV box holds the grip shroud, it's tight enough that you don't really need but one bolt per piece to hold it.
That's what I'm talk'n bout.
I'm curious to know how the covertec clip is functioning as blade retention, and when you say one bolt you mean as you've utilized functional parts as bolts correct?
Use JB weld, no screws needed.
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the covertec is one of the aluminum ones tim sells, it's held in place by a socket head screw, I ground down the screw so that it has just enough length to put tension on the blade and keep the wheel on tight. otherwise it's just standard, but like the way it looks better than a regular screw.
another advantage was that with the covertec mounted over the shroud I could make a bigger hole so I could reposition it and then reapply the screw for a tension hold.
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