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First Saber Parts List
Fairly new here, been reading quite a bit. I just put together my wishlist, if I missed some key component please let me know. I'm aiming to have a red blade, and the best option that I could see was the White Seoul P4 with a lens, but if there's a better option out there I didn't see it. Then again these forums are big. *Shrug* Sound isn't a priority at the moment.
Electronics:
Optics:
Seoul P4 LED (White)
Luxeon Collimator Lens 5 deg viewing angle
Luxeon III/V Lens Holder
12 Colored Discs
Power:
BuckPuck 1000mA 4-wire
4AAA battery holder
SPST Latching Guarded switch with red button (Standard On/Off)
DPDT Latching red illuminated switch (Master Kill to be mounted in pommel, knowing me I'll leave it on at some point lol)
220ohm 1/4w resistor (for the kill switch)
Hilt / Blade:
Screw on LED blade holder style 8
MHS choke style 1
Hilt style 3 with guarded style switch hole
MPS Pommel style 7
MPS Insert style 2 (with Clip)
LED "TCSS style" Battle blade 1" OD (36 inches)
8-32 x 13/32" Black Thumb Screw (Quantity 3, Blade screws)
6-32 socket Head Cap Screw (Quantity 12, I'm planning on adding an over piece using sink pipe...maybe)
Covertec Clip
Oh...the kill switch is going to be wired in series with the main On/Off switch, does anyone know if the resistor will cause issues for the Buckpack? Thanks for taking the time to look over a nubbin's wee little plan
Last edited by Ovlos; 10-22-2009 at 10:19 PM.
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Thanks for the reply. I wasn't sure about the Covertec button, as it looked as if the part I had listed had a button included already. If it's plastic however, I'll be adding a machined button to my wish list.
Going off what I read, the 5 degree lens gives much better illumination that the 10 degree for the blade I'm going to be using. If the lens doesn't fit the holder, I'll modify one or the other to get it to fit together properly. I was also planning on having to modify the pommel insert to make the button fit.
As to the resistor and buckpack...I was a bit tired when I posted last night. After a little more research the schematic will look a bit like this:
The LED switch has a separate positive/negative terminal just for the LED itself and terminals for the switch mechanism itself...stupid me lol, I thought that the LED and the switch itself were running off one set of terminals. Oh well...sleep makes everything better. Other than that I'm planning on building a sled to hold the main guts of my saber so when I upgrade it won't be such a pain. Shouldn't be too hard, I build stuff like that for IR light testers and some other things for work.
Last edited by Ovlos; 10-23-2009 at 03:04 PM.
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The power for the switch LED runs in parallel with the power for the buckpack, going through the resistor first as per the schematic
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