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Thread: Luxeon LED color confusion

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ryma Mara
    That blade movie color topic has only been done with blue as far as I have seen.

    The person said they were gonna do green but I dont he ever got around to it.
    Geez, give the man more than a day. He only posted that on the 29th! :P
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  2. #12
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    LukeSky

    you are probably looking for bin 1 or 2, which is basically the "peak" relative spectral power distribution... or a fancy way to say it's at peak "brightness" for what that is worth.

    http://www.lumileds.com/pdfs/DS46.pdf

    Page 8 will show you the waveform peaks & troughs for each color.

    You'll see that green "peaks" in "brightness" at around 525/530nm.

    I put these in quote because... everyone's eyes are different, and everyone's preferences are different.

    I can't think if "lime" is closer to the amber spectrum... or the cyan one. Do you know???
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  3. #13
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    Ok, not so much a color confusion but a CURRENT confusion I had...

    Several months ago, I could have SWORN the Luxeon K2s for red, red-orange and amber... were listed as having a max. continuous current of 700ma...

    ...but NOW, when I look at the luxeonstar site... it seems to be 1500ma??!? Hanh?!

    Did I completely read wrong for many months? Am I on drugs??? I mean seriously... I am 95% certain I read those currents as 700ma a long time ago when I first bought some emitters... did things CHANGE (which might be normal, but... I missed it?!?!?)??

    Any help would be appreciated...
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  4. #14
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    No, your not crazy... I did a double take too because I had to check too.

    I guess that puts the K2 and III on level playing field for Red, etc... The difference seems to be voltage which to me is worth it if for nothing else.
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    HA! Leave it to X-wing to help me confirm that I'm not crazy! YES! Sure, a short-lived victory, but... dude right on, thanks.

    I *THOUGHT* that was awfully weird. But now it arises the new questions:

    * Do the "older" K2s, bought under the "fake" (?) specs do anything of import at 1500ma?? Or will they just sizzle like bacon in the pan.

    * Does buying a "newer" (yet NON-"tffc" one) K2 yield some new benefit that the "older" ones didn't.

    * Will it even matter if (for example) the lumens go from like "X" to "X+20" or whatever.

    Hmm. More tests. Oh joy.
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  6. #16

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    Ok so what would there lumen output be when driven at 1500?

    They dont mention that.
    Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex. - Albert Einstein

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  7. #17
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    You could make some kind of assumption... a bit of "sloping down" thinking instead of TOTALLY linear comparison (which would be off) and using a ratio based on the data from other currents:

    Luxeon K2 Red (emitter data)
    45 lm @ 350mA
    75 lm @ 700mA
    ????? @ 1000ma
    ????? @ 1500ma

    Well, I'd think:

    100 lm @ 1000ma
    125 lm @ 1500ma


    ...it is obviously a guess, but a relatively fair one. Besides, better to shoot low and end up with BETTER brightness, rather than to say "160 lumens" and end up waaaaaay under.

    But ultimately, if the K2 Red does indeed continue to gain lumens up toward 1500ma... well, the Lux III Red is 140lm at 1540ma... so the K2 is at least in the same ballpark.

    Still (as X-wing states), the general fwd voltages have differences:

    Lux III Red = 2.95vf, 1540ma = 140 lm
    Lux K2 Red = 3.40vf, 1500ma = 125??? lm


    So... even if the Lux K2 *WAS* 140lm @ 1500... it would STILL require more voltage to run it. Seems better to stick with the more efficient one. Duh.
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  8. #18

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    But either way your not gonna use a 3V battery pack to drive the led. so I don't think the voltage is gonna matter much since almost all leds(3/k2) will be run with 4.8v or so battery packs.

    IAm gonna be optimistic as say its gonna get about 150-160 lumens at 1.5A.

    I dont know maybe iam missing something but how will a lower voltage but much higher current more efficient? wouldn't efficient mean that its in the middle ground of voltage to current requirments. So even if the red k2 was to make 140 lumens at 1.5a its more efficient, and besides the k2s don't have that grounding out on the heatsink problem that the lux3s have.

    To me that's efficient, I don't know maybe Iam also missing something entirely
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  9. #19
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    Efficiency is lumen per watt.

    In real life you're right that with a full battery pack the voltage difference won't make a difference. The difference will come when your battery is low or you're driving in a less ideal way. With less volts you can run it longer, simply put.

    Also take an MR board... when I have a choice I test my LEDs and put the lowest voltage one in the MR. Why? Because with the least amount of volts it needs to light fully the closer the MR will be to driving it properly.
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  10. #20

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    I donno when it comes to bins but all the k2's and rebels ive bought been lime green to me.

    the 3 watt lux is a different type of green through my eyes, i think the 5 watt is too, same with the p4(all still nice tho).

    When it comes to blue, i feel that the rebel and k2's are good blues. The 5 watt isn't too bad of a blue, and i think the 3 watt is just medioker. the lux 3 m akes a good sith red and is basically the only one.

    you have to remember that in the movies what ever color is in the background of the lightsaber can change slightly change the look of the color.

    or the hilt can too , i think through my eyes that quigon's hilt makes his green look a little different then the others in the movie.

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