Thus begins the journey of "Tempero Furoris"

[cardcollector]

Hey guys,

I have spent the last 6 months designing, redesigning, and trying to come up with a double MHS design that was unique and yet fully functional in battle.

I have finally come up with a design I'm satisfied with. here it is.

Credit goes to Sairon for the render.

Now, this is going to be my next project and it will probably take a year or so to complete as this will be my personal saber. I will also need to get funds.

So I made this thread for your input and any questions I may have, I'm going to post here (I'm sure I'll have a few.) so as not to clog the forums with questions.

I will also post progress and build pictures as I make headway.

SO without any further long winded delay here is some of the things I am planning to incorperate into this saber

1.) three chrystal chambers
2.) A real orange blade
3.) Recessed recharge port
4.) Brass overlays
5.) 2 MR jedi sound boards
6.) 2 Corbin Driver boards
7.) Reverse sound LDM style
8.) custom PC stencil of my avatar

So, yeah that's alot of stuff. and I wanted to know what you guys thought.

I DO have some questions already though and I'll list them right off the bat.

1) I plan on using RGB to get a good bright orange. Is this the best option?
2) I am still trying to decinde on a switch. any suggestions? I want something low profile so it won't get in the way while dueling
3) Will the covertec clip fit on the pommel style I have?
4) You can use MR and corbin board together to acheive shimmer, fadein/out etc. right?
5) What does "clear coat" do in PC and since I'm going to use copperjacketmetallic (CJM) do I need it?

So, there you have it, I hope to learn a lot and be able to teach others a few things by the time this is finished.
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Well guys, I am super excited! after Christmas I recieved some money with the expressed intention to spend it on lightsabers... OK!
I haven't done any real work yet, I am mainly trying to get the template just right for the "s" curve grips.

So here are the parts for the hilt...


and the quick screwing together of the parts.... I love the way it looks! I am glad to have gone with the 6" fluted section and not the 5"


Next is the crystal I am going to use for the chamber in the choke. This crystal is special to me because I found it while I was on a Mission Trip in Africa. I believe it is smoked quartz, but definetely raw.


I also tested to see how well the crystal would look in the choke. Tim did a superb job on the custom work. Thanks!
I think it looks great. The crystal diffuses the light quite well. and it fits like it was made for it... (I think it was personally)


So there is my first solid update! I am still getting electronics parts, and will continue to work on it as I have the time....

[Invisas1979]

Hey guys,

I have spent the last 6 months designing, redesigning, and trying to come up with a double MHS design that was unique and yet fully functional in battle.

I have finally come up with a design I'm satisfied with. here it is.

Credit goes to Sairon for the render.

Now, this is going to be my next project and it will probably take a year or so to complete as this will be my personal saber. I will also need to get funds.

So I made this thread fo input and any questions I may have (I'm going to post here (I'm sure I'll have a few.) so as not to clog the forums with questions.

I will also post progress and build pictures as I make headway.

SO without any further long winded delay here is some of the things I am planning to incorperate into this saber

1.) three chrystal chambers
2.) A real orange blade
3.) Recessed recharge port
4.) Brass overlays
5.) 2 MR jedi sound boards
6.) 2 Corbin Driver boards
7.) Reverse sound LDM style
8.) custom PC stencil of my avatar

So, yeah that's alot of stuff. and I wanted to reall know what you guys thought.

I DO have some questions already though and I'll list them right off the bat.

1) I plan on using RGB to get a good bright orange. Is this the best option?
2) I am still trying to decinde on a switch. any suggestions? I want something low profile so it won't get in the way while dueling
3) Will the covertec clip fit on the pommel style I have?
4) You can use MR and corbin board together to acheive shimmer, fadein/out etc. right?
5) What does "clear coat" do in PC and since I'm going to use copperjacketmetallic (CJM) do I need it?

So, there you have it, I hope to learn a lot and be able to teach others a few things by the time this is finished.

This looks like a good build, the brass shroud is going to be tough, but will be well worth it.

I can answer a few questions but not all and add a bit of insight.

Lets start with the pc. I understand clear coat to be like lacqure on a car, gives a shine which doesn't fade. If you touch polished metal the oils in your skin caused oxidisation on the metal making it dull (eventually) clear coat will prevent this.

Regarding the covertec button. It's placement is over the threads at the moment. You don't want that.

If you do a reverse sound where the speaker is below the choke you will need a custom chasis for the speaker as the choke won't sit properly on top of the speaker.

sand and finish the brass overlay first, that thing will be a monster to finish after you've cut it. Do you know how to do this?

Will the switch run from the corbin board of the MR board?

Re the led maybe a RGGB willl be better for the color mixing to get orange. More of a though that an informed suggestion.

As for the switch, you have a 7in fluted section of which about an inch is thread. The MR board is roughly 2innches battery solution will be 2-2.5 inches depending and the corbin I believe is around an inch. This doesn't leave much to play with. If you go for a momentary corbin driver the switch you could use is this
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/SP...itch-P261.aspx
Which would help with your space limitations. Though I don't know if a momentary corbin will work with a latching MR board.

Hope this is of some help

[Darth Quin]

On the pommel you can fit the covertec on there but there will be some overhang. I would suggest pommel style one since I have done this to one of my sabers. Looks great but when it is connected how will you attach it for carrying, just a thought.

[$tarkiller]

This build will be very nice indeed. I cannot wait to see the finished product.

[cardcollector]

Awesome responses.

I think I will go with some clear coat so as to preserve it but that will make the cost of the hilt almost double.
So I was wondering how hard is to PC? And would it be cheaper if I bought my own PC stystem, a toaster oven and do it myself?

So, why can't I screw the fluted section and pommel together, drill and thread a hole, and just unscrew the covertec clip screw when I remove it?
If it Really won't work then I will use MP 1 as suggested. (thanks BTW)

As for the overlay, yeah, I know how to get all the chrome off a sinktube but what do you mean by giving it a finish? Is it the same concept as a clear coat?

I have never used a MR board or corbin board, so I am doing reading on that... (any advice on them would be great though)

I was hoping to use a 5 in. fluted section. will all the guts fit or do I need to go bigger?

I would really like to use an anti-vandal illuminated orange switch. TCSS doesn't sell them so does anybody have a supplier. (I haven't checked Mouser yet, but that is the first in my list.)

Thanks for the compliments and the help so far.

[Jedi-Loreen]

If you use the illuminated AV switches, you'll have even less room inside your hilt. With a 5" section and an AV switch, you're going to end up with only about 3" of room for the boards, batteries and speakers.

Cutting a spiral overlay like that out of sink tube is going to be extremely difficult. If you don't clear coat the brass it will tarnish very quickly, so you'll need to do that if you want it to stay shiny.

Drilling and threading through the threads on both hilt and pommel is a bad idea. One burr in the wrong place and the parts are stuck, or the threads get damaged.

[Invisas1979]

Awesome responses.

So, why can't I screw the fluted section and pommel together, drill and thread a hole, and just unscrew the covertec clip screw when I remove it?
If it Really won't work then I will use MP 1 as suggested. (thanks BTW)

As for the overlay, yeah, I know how to get all the chrome off a sinktube but what do you mean by giving it a finish? Is it the same concept as a clear coat?

I was hoping to use a 5 in. fluted section. will all the guts fit or do I need to go bigger?

Like j-Lo said drilling through the thread is a bad idea as it could ruin the parts. Maybe consider a d-rind instead of the covertec.

By finishing I mean polishing. Once you have all the chrome off down to the brass, finish it with some 400 wet n dry paper and wet it with WD40 and finish the flatting with 1200 wet n dry. Then some brass or copper polish. That will bring it to a real nice shine.

You wont get the parts in a 5inch fluted and you def wont get an AV switch in there, as it is 16mm thick. The measurement of the batt/speak and MR are exact and the wires will need some space also.

[Invisas1979]

Also I have an idea for the shroud. Get some 1-1.5cm ribbon, wrap it to the sink tube and keep it place with some masking tape. Then cut around it.

[Eco]

Why not two Amber LEDs?
Those are pretty dang orange.

[cardcollector]

Ok so I need to use a 7 inch fluted section and MPS 1. Got it.

I will also need to Clear coat the Brass sinktube...

The reason I don't want to use amber is it is yellowish too, Half the people that see it say "wow, cool yellow blade!"
and then the other half say "wow, cool orange blade! or is it yellow?"

So if I could get a BIN 6 Amber then I would definetly go with it. But you know how realistic that is...

EDIT:
I've been Doing some research on driver boards and would like to know which you guys preferr?
-The Corbin Board
- Or Erv's board

and can you use them with RGB's?