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Thread: On-going Saber Design Check

  1. #1

    Default On-going Saber Design Check

    Hi everyone! When I joined this forum I begin by asking about this design, http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ead.php?t=8626

    Since then a Lot of reading and consideration I have come up with a design more my own. Over time I will be logging here the parts and process for this design (as it is a complex design that still needs to evolve) and I would be very appreciative if anyone would check my work to make sure there is nothing I've overlooked. Thanks to anyone whom grants advice!

    I'll start with design. Here is the first render. It's only a front view but more will follow.


    Current Parts List:

    Hilt:
    LED blade holder style 16
    Hilt style 2 with guarded style switch hole
    Double ended male threaded connector
    2" Double female threaded connector
    MPS Pommel style 8
    Custom Forged Sleeve
    Blade Retention screw (need to check some things before I can figure out if it may need to be special or not)
    Body holding screws (to hold sleeve to hilt)
    MPS Insert style 6 (for recharge port)

    Electronics:
    Lens 5 deg viewing angle
    Luxeon III/V Lens Holder
    Luxeon V Star (Cyan)
    UltraSound 2.5
    DPDT Latching Orange illuminated (What is the reason for a Momentary?)
    Premium Speaker (not sure yet How I will mount as I'm not sure about how my power will come yet)
    Rechargeable Battery Pack (Specs yet to be figured)
    Recharge Port
    Battery Indicator cyan and orange (I was thinking about moding an Evr)
    Acrylic Crystal for Crystal chamber
    LED for Crystal

    Blade:
    1" Thin walled Polycarbonate 36"
    Corbin Film-single wrap
    Bullet shaped tip for 1" thin walled
    __________________________________

    Congratulations for reading through that!

    I know I may need some more electronics parts but I'm not sure exactly what I'm putting in yet, Thats one of the things I'm asking help for.

    I want 1 LED for the crystal chamber if I can fit it, Battery indicator, Illuminated switch, the Luxeon V and my Driver board.

    Thanks for any help! Really Thanks for dealing with all this. I know it's long.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Kastor; 10-04-2009 at 06:25 PM.

  2. #2

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    If you are looking to go with the US 2.5 for sound you will need a momentary switch, but I see you mentioned specifically a driver board. Makes me wonder if you mean a driver only, thus sans sound...

    Anyway, so far looks ok and I dig your design.. i'm sure one of the "old timers" will drop by to add some good advice
    Every time Tim ships an order... an angel gets its wings



    "Just get one and go nuts, that's how this hobby works. Get stuff. Go nuts. Period." ~FenderBender~

  3. #3

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    Other Foreseeable problems:

    Making everything fit! The crystal chamber is more or less right across form the battery indicator and Switch I'm not sure that will work out but I would really like to find a way to make it work. I was thinking of using acrylic crystals but I think doing the real crystal thing would be cool that way I could get a thin one from my local science store.

    The battery Indicator cuts across the Male-Male extension. I'm not sure how this would work Could I just cut trough it after making sure everything lines up?

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by Shadar Al'Niende View Post
    If you are looking to go with the US 2.5 for sound you will need a momentary switch, but I see you mentioned specifically a driver board. Makes me wonder if you mean a driver only, thus sans sound...
    Um yeah, sorry that was unclear. I ment US 2.5 only I don't think I need a driver for anything. But I am aware that the US 2.5 doesn't control a battery indicator right...? so I might need another board of some kind.

  5. #5

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    Oh and also I'm not really sure about the Illuminated Switch, Will that fit into the guarded switch hole on the side of the Hilt? Also if it's momentary does that mean you have to hold down the switch the entire time your using the saber!? Thats my understanding of momentary switches... please correct me and excuse my ignorance but I did wiki it and thats what it said lol.

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kastor View Post
    Oh and also I'm not really sure about the Illuminated Switch, Will that fit into the guarded switch hole on the side of the Hilt? Also if it's momentary does that mean you have to hold down the switch the entire time your using the saber!? Thats my understanding of momentary switches... please correct me and excuse my ignorance but I did wiki it and thats what it said lol.
    The US2.5 board will use the Mom Switch for the power-up/down, you will not have to hold the button while the device is active.

  7. #7

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    AH, Then will the light stay lit that would make me sad if it didn't.

  8. #8
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Kastor View Post
    The battery Indicator cuts across the Male-Male extension. I'm not sure how this would work Could I just cut trough it after making sure everything lines up?
    Do you mean male-male connector? I seriously doubt that would be a good idea. You will probably have to rethink some of your design for practical reasons. Especially once you get your parts in hand.

    Quote Originally Posted by Kastor View Post
    Um yeah, sorry that was unclear. I ment US 2.5 only I don't think I need a driver for anything. But I am aware that the US 2.5 doesn't control a battery indicator right...? so I might need another board of some kind.
    No, you just need to match the battery voltage closely to the LED you'll be using.
    In order to see the Light,
    you must sometimes risk the Dark.
    TCSS MODERATOR


    BLUE 8 Ready to ROCK and ROLL!

  9. #9

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    Thanks I was hoping that would be the case with the Indicator.

    I think I will be ordering some parts before I start the build/talking to tim about custom cuts. So some of these answers should come just by looking at the parts.

  10. #10

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    nice looking saber design, i like the shroud design.

    here's my 2 cents: instead of the male-male adapter, and then the 2" female-female extension, you could try your design with a choke in that location. I'm not 100% sure if that would make the saber more practical or not, it's just a thought.

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