My first saber! (Sink tube)
Hello all,
I have been wandering around for some time now and finally got all the pieces together to build a first lightsaber, thanks to the help of everyone's postings in this forum.
Here are pics from the saber:
Specs:
LUX III Green
4x AA batteries + resistor
1.25inch sink tube + blade holder from TCSS
-DS
Simple yet elegant! Huzzah!
Congrats on making your fist saber, what do you have planned next?
Every time Tim ships an order... an angel gets its wings
"Just get one and go nuts, that's how this hobby works. Get stuff. Go nuts. Period." ~FenderBender~
Pretty basic, but it's a good start.
Now build something with more character.
In order to see the Light,
you must sometimes risk the Dark.
TCSS MODERATOR
BLUE 8 Ready to ROCK and ROLL!
My next 2-3 sabers should be still based on sink tubes. For the next, I'd like to use accent LEDs, trim the holder end with a dremmel (curve style) to give him a better saber look. Maybe a charge port in the pommel, a covertec knob and probably a Seoul P4 White + purple filter... Something like that...
For the first one, I found out too late that I did not have the better 3W LED for green. I should have used a K2 instead, so I plan of redoing this one but with a shorter blade, the current one being too long for my taste (36 inch, 35 visible).
This stuff is really fun!
-DS
Congrats on the first saber. I'm a big fan of sink tube sabers, well done.
i like sink tube as well, but i planned on a actual emitter and pommel with the 1.5 sink tube to mhs converter.
nice.
if you are new these links will get you started
tutorial on ohms law!!!
the saber building dictionary-a dictionary with basically everything about sabers!
thread index-this is the thread index!
the basic saber building tutorial-tutorial for making basic hilts!
start here if new-start right here if your brand new fresh out of the factory never before opened noob!
dont go with a K2. go with a seoul or a LEDengin green 5 watt. K2s arent as bright as P4s and plus they suck battery life. they take a whopping 1500 mah whereas the P4s only take a 1000. and the LEDengine 5 watts are just plain awesome. there a direct swap for any lux 3.
DJ, you probably shouldn't tell someone who's new at this to NOT do something when it's really all a matter of preference.
Do-Clo uses almost exclusively Lux Vs, and I prefer the Lux V, myself.
P4s and K2s and LEDEngines all have their pros and cons, but I suppose the biggest point is that TCSS does not offer LEDEngines, which makes getting one more difficult, and draws business away from TCSS.
Try just posting your opinion and let him decide from there.
Anyway, Nice saber!
My first saber was a green Lux V (Nyeh.) sinktube saber, but I used bladeholder style 1, an MHS to 1.5" sinktube adapter, and had a covertech knob.
Ah, the memories.
"You don't stop playing because you grow old, you grow old because you stop playing."
-Benjamin Franklin
Nice first saber, I can't wait to see better sabers coming from you.
New to the forum: READ, READ, READ! it's the best way not to get flamed.
Time for a kirby dance <('-'<) (><) <('-')> (>'-')> (>'-'<)<('-'<) (><) <('-')> (>'-')> (>'-'<)
Thanks for the recommendations. I wanted to use the K2 for green LED as it is the brightest one in the chart below 5 watts. I don't think I can manage to put enough voltage to feed up a 5W led in a sink tube anyway. A 8xAA batteries holder that fits into a 1.25 sink tube would require a very long hilt I think. I did't cut the current one and I think the next one should be more around 10 inches than 12...
So, to summarize, should I use K2 or a P4 to get the better green without going 5W? It seems TCSS does not have colored P4. Did you mean to use a white P4 with a lens?
thanks!
-DS
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