Parts List - Modification
My current saber runs off a LUX III and 4 Triple A batteries. I'm looking to modify it some, and have come up with parts that I want. Let me know if I'm going to need anything:
-DPDT Latching Blue Illuminated Switch
-Bezel for Illuminated Switches
-7" Fluted Main Body with Guarded Style Switch Hole
-Machine switch hole in MHS section (to fit the illuminated switch)
-Premium 9V Connector
Why do you need a 9v connector?
"You don't stop playing because you grow old, you grow old because you stop playing."
-Benjamin Franklin
Well if you have a battery pack wired with the other end of the 9v connector then battery change is a snap.
But other than that its useless, unless of course your using a 9V battery which I wouldent suggest unless you absolutly have to.
Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex. - Albert Einstein
Reaganomics not Obamanomics
I figured a 9V battery would be plenty to power both LEDs, but I'm guessing by your reactions that it's just a bad idea. I currently have a 4 AAA battery holder, and I wasn't happy with it; the plastic cracked and the coils of the negative side don't line up very well.
A 9V battery gives terrible run times. And it's more voltage than you need for your set up. You'd need a different resistor for your Lux LED if you're not using a buck puck. And you also need to get the correct resistor for the illuminated switch.
6V is plenty to run both LEDs. Just get a new 4AAA holder.
In order to see the Light,
you must sometimes risk the Dark.
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From what I gathered you dont need a resistor for eh switch cause it can take 12v, unless the new ones tim has need a resistor for the lighted switches.
Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex. - Albert Einstein
Reaganomics not Obamanomics
its not voltage that you need its run time (mah). which is the amount of milli amps the battery will contuninue to put out in one hour. lets say you are running 2 blue P4s. P4s are like 3 volts, and 1000 milli amps. go to like walmart or fred meyer electronic section and you could find some AA NiHM batteries that are 1.2 volt 2500 mah. so put two of those LED in series, resistor the first led from 6 to 3 volts and you have about 1.15 hours of run time. and but also take into consideration as your battery depletes your run time does also. its like a line graph. its level for a bit then slowly starts to decline.
then wiring them in series theres other stuff to consider.
if you wired them in parralel.... HMMMM thinking about this. ask someone elese i dont want to give you false info. im slowly starting to get a hang of this power stuff myself...
people feel free to corect me if im wrong with any of this stuff. just trying to help out,
What? I didn't understand any of that.Originally Posted by DJMoonbass
its not voltage that you need its run time (mah). which is the amount of milli amps the battery will contuninue to put out in one hour. lets say you are running 2 blue P4s. P4s are like 3 volts, and 1000 milli amps. go to like walmart or fred meyer electronic section and you could find some AA NiHM batteries that are 1.2 volt 2500 mah. so put two of those LED in series, resistor the first led from 6 to 3 volts and you have about 1.15 hours of run time. and but also take into consideration as your battery depletes your run time does also. its like a line graph. its level for a bit then slowly starts to decline.
then wiring them in series theres other stuff to consider.
if you wired them in parralel.... HMMMM thinking about this. ask someone elese i dont want to give you false info. im slowly starting to get a hang of this power stuff myself...
people feel free to corect me if im wrong with any of this stuff. just trying to help out,
Look, wiring for these high powered leds can be simple or tricky depending on what power supply you're using.
If you did what dj said you'd only have 2.4v, which isn't enough to even run a red LED very well.
The easiest and safest way to run a Lux III is to use a puck with your 6V aaa 4 pack. If you want to use rechargeables, then as long as you don't switch back and forth to alkalines you "COULD" run it direct without a puck. This is overdriving the LED and will probably shorten its life, but there are TONS of threads on this.......
Tim has a great resistor chart on the main page of the store, so if you are using Alkalines in any configuration, give a look to that chart and you'll see what you need. This is, of course, if you don't just get a puck. Like I said that's the easiest and best 'no worries' solution.
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Wow Dj still needs to do some learning.
Listen to fender, save you it can!
Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex. - Albert Einstein
Reaganomics not Obamanomics
The illuminated switches that Tim now carries do need resistors, you might want to check your facts first.
In order to see the Light,
you must sometimes risk the Dark.
TCSS MODERATOR
BLUE 8 Ready to ROCK and ROLL!
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