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Thread: First saber parts list (with sabersound)

  1. #1

    Default First saber parts list (with sabersound)

    Here are the parts I hope to be able to use in my first saber.

    I originally posted this in another thread of mine discussing the saber sound card I had purchased might be d amaged.

    I realised it might get a better response if posted here.

    I've compiled the list. Keep in mind this is for the SaberSound card:

    -Max input 10v

    -Direct drives 3 watt leds at 1000mah with 6v input

    -Can direct drive up to a LUX V


    Please let me know of what I've missed. As I'm sure I have.

    My wallet empties with this:

    7" Fluted with guarded style switch hole
    Screw on LED blade holder style 1
    Double ended male threaded connector
    3" Fluted double female threaded connector
    MPS Pommel style 4
    MPS Insert style 7
    SPST Momentary Guarded switch with blue button
    Premium Speaker
    Shouldered 1" thin walled blade tip with reflective disc
    Mirrored adhesive disc for Stip3/4Thin
    1" Thin walled Polycarbonate 40" long
    Blade film (Quad wrap +$9.00, 1" Thin walled)
    Luxeon III Star (Cyan)
    Luxeon III/V Lens Holder
    Luxeon Collimator Lens 5 deg viewing angle
    Luxeon Collimator Lens 10 deg viewing angle
    Luxeon star heatsink
    4AA battery holder
    10-32 x 1/4" set screw



    Now a few questions/comments:

    I've omitted a resistor because it states the board can direct drive the LuxIII. Would I need one anyway?

    Is there any advantage/disadvantage to 4AAs as opposed to 4AAAs?

    What exactly is the service for being able to accommodate this particular switch into the hilt? Is it just a matter of making the hole bigger? Because I can do that.

    I chose another mirrored disc because I intend on using the smaller diameter so some light can escape the tip of the blade.

    I chose both lenses because I don't know which I'll like.

    I can drill and tap the blade holder myself.


    Thanks for your time

  2. #2
    Banned Sith Lord
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    hey hey hey! nice list: okay you are missing one thing.... you need the MPS clip. how else will your insert stay in place?

    also the advantage of AA over AAA is that the AAs hold more juice and thus run longer. but there big and take up more room.

    the AAAs are smaller but have a less run time.

    also i just realized you are missing some form of blade retention... i would suggest a thumb screw.

    PEACE!

  3. #3
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    saw you only have 1 led so the heat sink is not needed
    one comes with the blade holder

  4. #4

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    If you are using a mirror just scratch some of the material off, but if you use it in a larger id blade its going to get knocked off the first hit it takes.
    Any intelligent fool can make things bigger and more complex. - Albert Einstein

    Reaganomics not Obamanomics


  5. #5
    Jedi Knight Ambo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DJMoonbass View Post
    hey hey hey! nice list: okay you are missing

    also i just realized you are missing some form of blade retention... i would suggest a thumb screw.
    That is what the set screw is for.......

    Quote Originally Posted by Maurnick View Post

    What exactly is the service for being able to accommodate this particular switch into the hilt? Is it just a matter of making the hole bigger? Because I can do that.

    Thanks for your time

    You have the correct switch for the main section you have, the main section comes with the hole oyu need, no other custom work needs to be done.


    Quote Originally Posted by Hasid Lafre View Post
    If you are using a mirror just scratch some of the material off, but if you use it in a larger id blade its going to get knocked off the first hit it takes.
    Mirrored adhesive disc for Stip3/4Thin

    Hasid, that is the thin adhesive disc....not a mirror like use to be sold here.....they stopped selling the mirrors here a long bit ago...

    Maurnick, you are fine to use that adhesive disc if you like.
    Last edited by Ambo; 09-17-2009 at 11:06 AM.

    "Life tests you! Everyday it brings new chances for triumph or defeat.
    And if you pass the test, it doesn't make you a Jedi. It makes you human."

    -Qui-Gon Gin

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by DJMoonbass View Post
    hey hey hey! nice list: okay you are missing one thing.... you need the MPS clip. how else will your insert stay in place?

    also the advantage of AA over AAA is that the AAs hold more juice and thus run longer. but there big and take up more room.

    the AAAs are smaller but have a less run time.
    Little bit of glue.

    Gotcha! Thanks!


    Quote Originally Posted by Darth Quin View Post
    saw you only have 1 led so the heat sink is not needed
    one comes with the blade holder
    Bah! I knew that. Totally overlooked it. Thanks.


    Quote Originally Posted by Ambo View Post
    You have the correct switch for the main section you have, the main section comes with the hole oyu need, no other custom work needs to be done.

    Maurnick, you are fine to use that adhesive disc if you like.
    Excellent. Thanks.

  7. #7
    Jedi Knight Ambo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maurnick View Post
    Little bit of glue.

    YES!!

    Someone else that knows the merrit of hot melt glue.....lol

    "Life tests you! Everyday it brings new chances for triumph or defeat.
    And if you pass the test, it doesn't make you a Jedi. It makes you human."

    -Qui-Gon Gin

  8. #8

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    with the sabersound you will be better off to go with two Li-ion batteries and a 1000 ma buck puck instead of 4aa or aaa. or maybe just one Li-ion straight but I would rather have the buck puck and know its getting the correct current.

    The reason being is the statement you made about the sabersound is incorrect (SF says the manufacturer changed the design of the board) and there is no voltage or current regulation on the board. The LED will pull much more than 1A from 6volts (or 4.8V if you are using rechargeable) and will have horrible run time and possibly blow the LED.

    If nothing else use the resistor chart and get a resistor for the voltage you will have as if you were direct driving it.

    If you want to know more check my post on fx-sabers in the sabersound tutorial post (I am MH over there).

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by Zook View Post
    with the sabersound you will be better off to go with two Li-ion batteries and a 1000 ma buck puck instead of 4aa or aaa. or maybe just one Li-ion straight but I would rather have the buck puck and know its getting the correct current.

    The reason being is the statement you made about the sabersound is incorrect (SF says the manufacturer changed the design of the board) and there is no voltage or current regulation on the board. The LED will pull much more than 1A from 6volts (or 4.8V if you are using rechargeable) and will have horrible run time and possibly blow the LED.

    If nothing else use the resistor chart and get a resistor for the voltage you will have as if you were direct driving it.

    If you want to know more check my post on fx-sabers in the sabersound tutorial post (I am MH over there).
    I've actually changed my mind as to what led to get. I've decided on this instead. Having a rating of 1500mA means I'd need a resistor. As much as I've read I'm still having trouble figuring out which resistor to use.

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by Maurnick View Post
    I've actually changed my mind as to what led to get. I've decided on this instead. Having a rating of 1500mA means I'd need a resistor. As much as I've read I'm still having trouble figuring out which resistor to use.
    resistor depends on your voltage. I believe that there is a resistor chart around here you can use to determine the resistor you need.

    Also a more efficient way would be to use two 700 buck pucks. It will only get you 1400ma but it will be more efficient and the battery life will be better. you will not notice the difference in 1400ma adn 1500ma I dont think.

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