Quick US 2.5 Wiring Question...

[Shadar Al'Niende]

It's late so forgive me if this is a ridiculous question

I did some, *cough* arranging, of items in my cart to cover the funds of a US 2.5 for my upcoming saber. Problem is I want to make sure I have all the electronics needed to handle this otherwise its a moot point.

US 2.5 handles up to 30v input and regulates (depending on the setting) the output so it really wont matter what battery hookup i use right? (in other words the 4AA battery pack that i got with the electronics kit is fine...)

My question is, with the speaker...is there anything i need to watch out for on that? Also I cannot find the dang thread that shows common wiring diagrams..i know, i know, i said it was late. I will try to look for it tomorrow unless someone feels kind enough to point me to it...

other than that i grabbed some extra wire and am just hoping it all fits in there with no cramming as I don't want to break a connection trying to make it all fit

[Jay-gon Jinn]

It's late so forgive me if this is a ridiculous question

I did some, *cough* arranging, of items in my cart to cover the funds of a US 2.5 for my upcoming saber. Problem is I want to make sure I have all the electronics needed to handle this otherwise its a moot point.

US 2.5 handles up to 30v input and regulates (depending on the setting) the output so it really wont matter what battery hookup i use right? (in other words the 4AA battery pack that i got with the electronics kit is fine...)

My question is, with the speaker...is there anything i need to watch out for on that? Also I cannot find the dang thread that shows common wiring diagrams..i know, i know, i said it was late. I will try to look for it tomorrow unless someone feels kind enough to point me to it...

other than that i grabbed some extra wire and am just hoping it all fits in there with no cramming as I don't want to break a connection trying to make it all fit

Input voltage is 9.6v, NOT 30v:

Battery input voltage.
Maximum for board = 9.6V
Minimum for Luxeon 3 and K2 = 4.5V
Minimum for Luxeon 5 = 7.2V
IMPORTANT! (be sure to use the correct voltage/power with corresponding LED type)

What this means is DO NOT try and run your lux3 off of 9v or even 7.2v

For the 2.95-4v LED's (lux3, P4, K2, etc..) you should be running 6v MAX

Wiring for an Ultrasound 2.5 will be similar to the 2.0/2.1/1.0:

[Jedi-Loreen]

US 2.5 handles up to 30v input and regulates (depending on the setting) the output so it really wont matter what battery hookup i use right? (in other words the 4AA battery pack that i got with the electronics kit is fine...)

Maybe you were thinking of the Lux 3 Driver V2? That has a max input voltage of 30V

My question is, with the speaker...is there anything i need to watch out for on that?

The small speakers we use don't really have polarity, so no worries there. You do need to be careful when you solder your wires onto them though. Make sure you tin your wires and don't hold the soldering iron tip on the pads too long or they can come off.

[Shadar Al'Niende]

Maybe you were thinking of the Lux 3 Driver V2? That has a max input voltage of 30V

D'oh! thanks, I WAS thinking of the Corbin Driver's description... Told you it was late

I should be able to use a Lux V with a 9 volt battery and a 3.3ohm 5w resistor/ 700mA Puck from the board to the LED though right?

Or should i run the resistor/puck from the battery pack? That just sounds funny.

*edit, Oh, and thanks jay-gon for the diagram...little loony that late at night!*

[Darth Quin]

If you are getting the 2.5 no need for a buck or resister

[Shadar Al'Niende]

oh yes because you can choose the setting in the card right?

Heatsink and nylon screws to mount come with this right?

[Jay-gon Jinn]

oh yes because you can choose the setting in the card right?

Heatsink and nylon screws to mount come with this right?

Yes, because you can choose the power settings in the menu, you do not need a resistor or puck....a 9 volt battery will also only run your saber for about 20 minutes before dying as well.

None of the led's come with a heatsink and screws, those only come with a blade holder.

[Shadar Al'Niende]

So what is an economical (real-estate-wise) solution for powering a lux V? That battery holder looks enormous...

oh and duh...i knew that came with the blade holder Looks like im 0 for 4...

Thanks Jay-Gon

[Jay-gon Jinn]

The best way to power the V is to use the two-AA battery holder and a pair of Protected Li-ion 14500 rechargeable batteries. They are currently out of stock, but there are other battery sites that may have them available on the internet.

EDIT:
Also, since you're planning on using an Ultrasound 2.5, I'd save a little bit of soldering an order this:
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/MH...ombo-P359.aspx
EDIT II:
I see that's out of stock as well....

[Shadar Al'Niende]

Yeah, was gonna by that but its out of stock as well..

I will see if i can grab the battery pack instead of the 9 v connector and look around at my local stores for the batteries. Thanks!

*edit* no good, budget is too tight..looks like i'm back to other lux III instead