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Thread: Purple Blade Color?

  1. #41

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    Feel free to correct me, but i think you are missing the point DJ. The Potentiometer allows you to "mix" your colors to get a specific shade by having variable resistance. the Resistor sets it at a fixed color that you cannot change because of fixed resistance. These do two very different things.

    CC brings up a good point. If you only want that color and don't want to worry about adjusting it, you could make the color permanent by using a resistor in place of the pot once you find the value...but the using a pot that requires a flat-head screwdriver or some such would be fairly permanent without having to re-wire the thing... Just seems like too much work to me...
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  2. #42

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    There are several ways to get a purple as my friends @ vader's vault know better than anyone. It all depends on a lot of variables.

    1. How do you plan to drive it. US,CF,Corbin,Buck Puck, MR or Hasbro?
    2. What is your power source solution. 4.5 AA, AAA, 2 14500's or 12 AC delco in DJ case.
    3. What LED are you using. and what are the specs for the RED and the Blue.
    4. and of coarse what shade are you looking for.

    You could be instructed on one way of achieving a certain shade like Invisas1979 pointed out, however if you drive it differently, have a different RGB or even just one of the LED's in the RGB be different or any other of multiple combination of differences to the list above and the changes can go from subtle to drastic. I have done a few Purples and I can tell you that none are exactly the same. And ever time I just had to play with the set up until I got what I was happy with.
    I don't do parallel RB setups anymore either.
    Just my worthless $0.02

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by grayven View Post
    There are several ways to get a purple as my friends @ vader's vault know better than anyone. It all depends on a lot of variables.

    1. How do you plan to drive it. US,CF,Corbin,Buck Puck, MR or Hasbro?
    2. What is your power source solution. 4.5 AA, AAA, 2 14500's or 12 AC delco in DJ case.
    3. What LED are you using. and what are the specs for the RED and the Blue.
    4. and of coarse what shade are you looking for.

    You could be instructed on one way of achieving a certain shade like Invisas1979 pointed out, however if you drive it differently, have a different RGB or even just one of the LED's in the RGB be different or any other of multiple combination of differences to the list above and the changes can go from subtle to drastic. I have done a few Purples and I can tell you that none are exactly the same. And ever time I just had to play with the set up until I got what I was happy with.
    I don't do parallel RB setups anymore either.
    Just my worthless $0.02

    Amen.

    To add, I just did two Mace conversions. One didn't give me the range for red that I was looking for and it was more into the "magenta" purple range, while the other had perfect range and was brighter. Go figure. Each board is different too and puts out different current. Thats why I use pots, cause a resistor method on a sound board would not be consistent.

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  4. #44

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    I've suggested this before elsewhere but I think for certain 'difficult' colours including purple what this hobby really needs is a 3 channel 0-255 RGB controller which would allow one to CONSISTENTLY set EXACT values for RGB driving in much the same way as PC monitor videocards or digital television sets do it...pots ARE an improvement over resistoring purple but unless they can be 'locked' down I'd be concerned that a dial-in pot's setting and therefore the colour could 'drift' over time from vibration, especially if there are frequent hardcore dueling shocks as must be expected for our saber use...and besides trying to set them consistently by hand/eye must be an absolute PITA for those sabersmiths who do their best at it [even if Fender's and Allaerra's eyes don't see it I'd bet money a spectrometer would show that no two Oppression Stopping Purpliscious Purple sabers are EXACTLY the same, nor could that be reasonably expected with HAND set potentiometers]...Kudos for their efforts despite the difficulty.

    And purple isn't even the hardest since the word actually describes a RANGE of colours...try setting TRUE Viridian which is a very precise specific RGB colour [64-130-109 RGB...thats 64 red NOT 65 red and 109 blue NOT 110 blue] with a hand pot...if anyone HUMAN can do that by hand/eye to 1/255th accuracy x3 even once much less repeatedly and CONSISTENTLY I will be suitably shocked and awed lol.

    Meanwhile even the cheapest PC video/TV driver can [and must] generate an EXACT viridian or any specific EXACT shade of purple or any other 3x 0-255 RGB values desired and do it 60-120 times a second across millions of RGB pixels [in HD sets] with perfect accuracy every time.

    Surely it should be possible to make a Lux-type driver that can do it for ONE high-powered LED 'pixel' which is what an RGB LED actually is in Jumbotrons eh?

    A 'set by the numbers not hand' 3 channel 0-255 digital RGB LED controller saber driver would be the biggest advance in our hobby in awhile imo...and make everyone's 'purple problems' a thing of the past...we need one imo and personally I'd be willing to pay extra for it on an Ultrasound 3 or CF 5 or Corbin v3 or whatever gets one in the marketplace and if Strydur stocked them at TCSS I bet they would sell well to all the fans whose repeated threads over the years show plenty of people want purple, orange, viridian or other KOTOR/NJO non-movie saber colours.
    Last edited by Onli-Won Kanomi; 10-07-2009 at 03:05 PM.

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Onli-Won Kanomi View Post
    I've suggested this before elsewhere but I think for certain 'difficult' colours including purple what this hobby really needs is a 3 channel 0-255 RGB controller which would allow one to CONSISTENTLY set EXACT values for RGB driving in much the same way as PC monitor videocards or digital television sets do it...pots ARE an improvement over resistoring purple but unless they can be 'locked' down I'd be concerned that a dial-in pot's setting and therefore the colour could 'drift' over time from vibration, especially if there are frequent hardcore dueling shocks as must be expected for our saber use...and besides trying to set them consistently by hand/eye must be an absolute PITA for those sabersmiths who do their best at it [even if Fender's and Allaerra's eyes don't see it I'd bet money a spectrometer would show that no two Oppression Stopping Purpliscious Purple sabers are EXACTLY the same, nor could that be reasonably expected with HAND set potentiometers]...Kudos for their efforts despite the difficulty.



    And purple isn't even the hardest since the word actually describes a RANGE of colours...try setting TRUE Viridian which is a very precise specific RGB colour [64-130-109 RGB...thats 64 red NOT 65 red and 109 blue NOT 110 blue] with a hand pot...if anyone HUMAN can do that by hand/eye to 1/255th accuracy x3 even once much less repeatedly and CONSISTENTLY I will be suitably shocked and awed lol.

    Meanwhile even the cheapest PC video/TV driver can [and must] generate an EXACT viridian or any specific EXACT shade of purple or any other 3x 0-255 RGB values desired and do it 60-120 times a second across millions of RGB pixels [in HD sets] with perfect accuracy every time.

    Surely it should be possible to make a Lux-type driver that can do it for ONE high-powered LED 'pixel' which is what an RGB LED actually is in Jumbotrons eh?

    A 'set by the numbers not hand' 3 channel 0-255 digital RGB LED controller saber driver would be the biggest advance in our hobby in awhile imo...and make everyone's 'purple problems' a thing of the past...we need one imo and personally I'd be willing to pay extra for it on an Ultrasound 3 or CF 5 or Corbin v3 or whatever gets one in the marketplace and if Strydur stocked them at TCSS I bet they would sell well to all the fans whose repeated threads over the years show plenty of people want purple, orange, viridian or other KOTOR/NJO non-movie saber colours.
    I hear what you are saying, and a controller WOULD be ideal, but even in the PC world every monitor will display those EXACT colors differently. Just like each led is different, even on the RGBs you may get a dice that is binned differently. There is just SO many variables with power supplies and led driving that even the controller wouldn't be as consistant as you'd think. As far as O.S.P.P., we have our favorite purple accent LEDs set up as a benchmark and match the color to that (except for when the boards don't put out enough *cough*Mrs*cough*) with the pot. Our first few pots we tried didn't hold the settings especially with the higher current. The ones we use now are REALLY good and consistant, and you have to use a screwdriver to adjust them, so the bumping thing isn't that big an issue.

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  6. #46
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    12 ac delcro? what is dat? lol and i saw some small but nice pots at radio shack but im curious to know if those are crap or if there good? does anybody know? and i have officially decided that i am indeed using the P5 on my 3 trimester crystal saber for a nice amazing purple.

  7. #47

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    Quote Originally Posted by DJMoonbass View Post
    12 ac delcro? what is dat? lol and i saw some small but nice pots at radio shack but im curious to know if those are crap or if there good? does anybody know? and i have officially decided that i am indeed using the P5 on my 3 trimester crystal saber for a nice amazing purple.
    Eh??? Relevant as part of this topic because????

    Any how. Having dabbled a bit more it seem that though I said before to use a resistor on the red to achieve purple it seems you don't even have to do that, just wiring the positives in sequence is enough.

    Goes to show that you can (as, grayven, fender and onli-won said) get purple from varing methods. This was achieved from a 3w prolite RGB (not the 1w prolite you get in a joe jedi).

    I think as long as people know how to wire a rgb or one of its variants they will experiment to find a color they're happy with. All sabers are an individual expression of the maker so I see no reason for a standardized color.
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  8. #48

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    Good post. I appreciate it
    Many thanks to ur post. I love it.
    This is an interesting discussion. thank you for sharing
    Hi there, Would a new one like me be welcome here?
    Thanks so much in deed.

  9. #49

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    Quote Originally Posted by dulaxsqui View Post
    Good post. I appreciate it
    Many thanks to ur post. I love it.
    This is an interesting discussion. thank you for sharing
    Hi there, Would a new one like me be welcome here?
    Thanks so much in deed.

    Welcome to the forum dulaxsqui. A good place to begin is the "new to the saber scene" section...read through that and you will be off to a great start here. Pay particular attention to the thread index: the answers to most common questions are covered in the threads in that. Read, read, read some more, and you will soon be a wise and respected member here. Best of luck and enjoy the saber hobby...it is a lot of fun.

    Oh and when you do build a saber let us know about it on the build threads and gallery...we love seeing people's ideas become reality.

  10. #50
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