Maybe he was just saying that they can be run in parallel.
In order to see the Light,
you must sometimes risk the Dark.
TCSS MODERATOR
BLUE 8 Ready to ROCK and ROLL!
That's exactly what I'm saying. here is an example of a 3.7v 15,600 mah pack:
http://www.batteryspace.com/li-ion18...lewithpcb.aspx
all the batts are paralleled.
end of confusion.
I'M JUST A SPY(LOL)
Hello All,
thanks for all the responses.
Yes I did mistype the Voltage of my trustfires. I know they are 3.7V, but they tend to put out 4.2V. A side note, one seems dead, so either the charger isn't working or the battery is toast. I have seen people runnning batteries in parallel before for other apps.. its a weird thought I know.
But back to my question(s), which I think was answered in there somewhere:
What is the input voltage I can put to the US 2.5 board? Should I go for the 4 x 1.5V setup and give only 6V out tothe board, or can I use rechargables that output 1.2V (giving 4.8V), or can I use a set of the trustfires? which in my case probably output about 8V?
What is the boards MAX input voltage?
Again, I do not want to damage the board before I get going and try to use it, that would be a very expensive hundred dollar mistake, and I have seen conversations tend to go both ways - some people doing it and some recommending to NOT do it.
I thought in the video I watched (link posted on this forum someplace by Nova?) they were using the trustfires to power the US2.5 board, vs using 4 x 1.5V alkalines (or other).
I was really trying to get an idea, based off of what I have read in the forums and seen in the videos, on whether or not driving the US2.5 board with the trustfires was a good idea or not? Sounds like it is not. So I will stick with trying to just go the 6V route, unless I get some positive feedback from everyone suggesting otherwise.
I think this is a great forum for idea exchange and that everyone brings a lot of their own personal experiences to the table.
As a ridiculous side note: was at Target the other day and they have X-mas stuff out already. They had a string of LED X-mas "lights" you could buy, they had Purple (okay, it was white with a purple shell). Just thought it funny, but could be a great way to pick up some different colored accent LEDs.
thanks ALL
If you don't want to damage your board then just follow the voltage recommendations listed on the product description.
Battery input voltage:
Maximum for board = 9.6V
Minimum/Maximum for Luxeon 3, K2, P4 = 4.5V / 7.2V (6V recommended)
Minimum/Maximum for Luxeon 3,P4 Red/Amber = 4.8V / 6.0V
Minimum for Luxeon 5 = 7.2V
IMPORTANT! (be sure to use the correct voltage/power with corresponding LED type)
Tim
The Custom Saber Shop
Thanks Tim,
I will.
Guess I was being a little paranoid and wanted to really make sure, since I had seen some back and forth on the forums regarding the input voltage for the board.
I am also liking the chrome finish on the Graflex replica parts, though I still can't get the replica red button switch to thread properly. I don't mind getting a correctly sized tap for that so I can do it right. Do you know the threading on that. I believe I sent a one off mail to you about it in the summer.
Thanks
Ron
Ya know,
I'm guessing that the reason Ultra doesn't have a manual is just because they just don't feel like putting one together. Something nice for this site at least would be an unofficial Ultra 2.5 manual with everything we collectively know about it. Eandori, you look like you have it pretty down...
Plus if one was put together and the work was done for them, Ultra might just take it and include it from now on, helping the entire saber community. Think of it as charity work. For a bright shiny charity.
"vibrations within vibrations, traveling at the speed of color"
"I've got a bad feeling about this..."
hi...
its possible to use a cree xre led (maybe luxIII status) with the us 2.5 soundboard and which batterypack 4aa or 4 aaa.
thx for help
n1 day
Live long and...I mean May the force be with you. http://saberconcepts.50.forumer.com/index.php
@ Rhyen Skytracker
thx a lot
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