Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 1 2 3
Results 21 to 27 of 27

Thread: Joe Jedi Wiring Help Needed (big time)

  1. #21

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by xl97 View Post
    quick question..

    I need to run an 'led' (small illuminated switch) of the 616..so it only comes on when the saber is on.. of course I wanted it on when either jedi or sith sound is on.. so Ineed to use the leads to the LED form the 616...

    my question is:

    do I need the Red/Green/Blue wires? (I'd solder them all together to form one lead to the leg on the switch)..

    or do I need:

    Red/Green/Blue/Brown?

    I dont recall what the brown wire was for...

    Im assuking I can use the bottom of the board as well.. in the order?

    (Red/Green/Blue/Brown)
    So far as my understanding goes the red/blue/green is the + and the brown is the -

    As for where to attach the led wire for the illuminated switch, I'm still trying to puzzel that out myself.
    Obi-Wan: "If you spent as much time practicing your saber techniques as you did your wit, you'd rival Master Yoda as a swordsman"

    Anakin: " I thought I already did"

    Obi-Wan: "Only in your mind, my very young apprentice"


  2. #22

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Invisas1979 View Post
    So far as my understanding goes the red/blue/green is the + and the brown is the -

    As for where to attach the led wire for the illuminated switch, I'm still trying to puzzel that out myself.
    You're right, the brown one is negative. Illuminated switches ordinarily have eight prongs. Two sides have three each, and two sides have one each. Those solitary prongs are the wires for the illuminated switch's LED. You can wire it parallel to the main LED, but make sure you use the right resistor, unless the datasheet for the switch specifically states that it has an internal resistor. (Most don't.) Without the right resistor, you will fry the LED, particularly if it's red. Tim's new WiringBuilder is great for finding the right resistor. Just click the "Resistor Chart" tab, choose the right illuminated switch from the menu, choose your battery set-up, and like magic you get not just the resistor info but an easy-to-understand wiring diagram to boot!
    There's always a bigger fish.

  3. #23

    Default

    Im not trying to run it directly off the battery pack.. as stated I will using the LED output leads/wires from the 616 board... wiring directly to the battery pack means the switch is on all the time.. (unless a kill key is used)..

    I will have to wire/solder all 3 wires together and have them go to the switches LED+..so I can have it work no matter what sound font is chosen..

    I just wanted confirmation that the brown was in fact negative.

    I guess to make sure I have the correct resistor on it.. anyone know the output of the 616 board? so I can calculate the resistor I need?

    Thanks

  4. #24

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by xl97 View Post
    I guess to make sure I have the correct resistor on it.. anyone know the output of the 616 board? so I can calculate the resistor I need?
    Just go by the voltage of your battery pack and you should be fine.
    There's always a bigger fish.

  5. #25

    Default

    yeah? no voltage drop form going through the board?

    sounds good to me I guess...LOL

    I have a couple more of these TINY, latching, illuminated DPDT switches anyways..

  6. #26

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by xl97 View Post
    Im not trying to run it directly off the battery pack.. as stated I will using the LED output leads/wires from the 616 board... wiring directly to the battery pack means the switch is on all the time.. (unless a kill key is used)..

    I will have to wire/solder all 3 wires together and have them go to the switches LED+..so I can have it work no matter what sound font is chosen..

    I just wanted confirmation that the brown was in fact negative.

    I guess to make sure I have the correct resistor on it.. anyone know the output of the 616 board? so I can calculate the resistor I need?

    Thanks
    Like Matt said I wouldn't try for more that 4.5volts or risk frying the board. I agree with wiring the led to the led output on the board, then you wont have the issue of the led being on all the time.
    Obi-Wan: "If you spent as much time practicing your saber techniques as you did your wit, you'd rival Master Yoda as a swordsman"

    Anakin: " I thought I already did"

    Obi-Wan: "Only in your mind, my very young apprentice"


  7. #27

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Invisas1979 View Post
    Like Matt said I wouldn't try for more that 4.5volts or risk frying the board. I agree with wiring the led to the led output on the board, then you wont have the issue of the led being on all the time.

    huh? Where did Matt say anything about not using more than 4.5 volts?

    Im not even sure what your talking about? LOL

    my question is/was what wires do I need from the 616 board to power the LED in my illuminated switch?

    RGB or RGB + brown... (which he confirmed brown is just the ground)

    I already have a resistor on the led in my switch.. but since it is NOT going straight from the battery pack..but instead of output THROUGH/FROM the 616 board.. I asked what the output was..since I was thinking there could be some voltage drop going through the board and finally to the output..

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •