blade construction?

[Spencer_P]

I used LOCTITE super glue ("All Plastics" version) on my EL blade. I got it at Wal-Mart for around $3. It comes in a little package with a tube of glue and an acivator-primer pen. The tip hasn't broken off yet, but then again, I've hardly dueled at all with my saber.

[xwingband]

Well, if people really have an interesting in getting Weld-on I'd be willing to work it out to buy bottles of it for people. I know where to buy it so it's really no problem for me.

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www.dewbackwing.com</center>

[Protein5000]

Spencer,

I used Loctite on my EL too - except it cost $20 in Australia!!

I have hit it against wood and stuff a few times and it seems really strong. When I make my LED sabers and duel properly I'de say that would be the better test.

[Madcow]

Question for people who have done some dueling...

I'm building a 1" polycarb saber, and I'm wondering what you've found to be the minimum safe distance the blade should slide into the hilt?
I'm guessing about 2" to start my experimennts with... any thoughts?

MC




You want to go home and re-think your life

[wood7588]

Madcow,
Tim's blade holder is roughly 2 inches deep. The polyc fits in perfectly with no play. It seems to handle the dueling just fine. I hear that some dont even use the set screw but for me after a few blows the blade starts to wiggle loose. I dont do heavy combat but I think it works beautifully.

[Mur-Pa DiLos]

I agree with that last statement. I really like the way that Tim designed those emitters. At first I used it without the thumb-screw because I forgot to order them (doh!) but now after considerable amount of dueling I just put in a regular 10-32 screw until I can get the thumb screw. They work great, even in Kendo class![]