Hence the fried board. I'm afraid it was nothing more than a defective board my friend, kind of like the brain tumor that gives you super powers but eventually blows up and kills you. (OK maybe that was a little over the top...)
Hence the fried board. I'm afraid it was nothing more than a defective board my friend, kind of like the brain tumor that gives you super powers but eventually blows up and kills you. (OK maybe that was a little over the top...)
Last edited by Arm on Fire; 09-01-2009 at 05:25 AM.
This little project has been scrapped due to a dud board sent to me.
Working on a refund.
MEanwhile, snagged an MR FX yoda in tact..will be gutting it but potentially using parts of the hilt for sleds and things.
Hmmm...crystal chamber may now be a reality for the current build.
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lol yeah I agree though I wish I had run 3AAAs and maybe then I would still be using that board (never know). It worked for a while on low batts (rest of that night and into the morning until I ran out and got new ones probably a good 30 min. or so). Put the new batteries in and within seconds poof...the new batteries were just too much voltage for it...my guess is it jumped the current output up even more and thats what popped it but I didn't check the current before it blew.
It must have just been that transistor because when I replaced it with another one (have no way of telling exactly what the values were just know it was PNP) the board went back to working fine but will only put out the standard 300-350mA.
We really need a definitive Construction Set/Joe Jedi/616 thread, preferably a sticky with wiring diagrams that have been proven to work (along with disclaimers explaining what their shortcomings are, since they all seem to have shortcomings). I posted warnings about the dangers of going over 4.5V in a couple of relevant threads, but alas, as things stand it is very hard to avoid repeating others' mistakes because it is hard to learn that history. After killing two 616 boards, I managed to do a serviceable conversion using a relay hooked up to the LED leads that I was not at all happy with, because there is a delay of a half-second or so before the LED leads put out enough voltage to turn on the relay. Using a DPDT and two separate circuits for board and LED, you get the reverse problem, where the moment you turn the saber off, the LED goes out, but the power-down sound goes on for well over a second.
I nominate Arm On Fire to make the Definitive Guide to the 616, since he seems to have the most experience (and success). But right now I would be happy to just have wiring diagram that I can make sense of. The two diagrams available on the store's wiring diagrams page look to me like they would have the same LED-goes-out-before-power-down-sound problem. I'm now wondering if there might be some way to use transistors to pump up the current going to the LED, so that you could simply replace the 1-Watt LED with a 3-Watt LED...?
There's always a bigger fish.
I agree with what Matt said, we do need a definative wiring schematic for the 616. There are alot of poeple with verious bits of knowledge on the subject. Grayven and Rhyen being some also.
My personal problem is wiring a secondary on/off switch to the board.
Matt the minimum power required to light a Lux three is 4.6v but I assure you, 4.5 will also work with speakers. That is from a secret source.
Obi-Wan: "If you spent as much time practicing your saber techniques as you did your wit, you'd rival Master Yoda as a swordsman"
Anakin: " I thought I already did"
Obi-Wan: "Only in your mind, my very young apprentice"
Arm On Fire already posted a pretty definitive wiring diagram for the 616. It is a board that has limited uses and is getting harder to come by. I feel it is going to become irrelevant very soon.
Also what do you mean the minimum power required to light a LUX III is 4.6v? What lux III's are YOU using? If you mean powering from a board, that's also not neccessarily true.
If you're new, please take the time we all consider just as precious as you and READ!
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Ok, so I miss typed I meant 4.8. And no I wasn't talking about the board.
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/Ul...d-25-P472.aspx
I use the same Lux 3's as everyone else.
Obi-Wan: "If you spent as much time practicing your saber techniques as you did your wit, you'd rival Master Yoda as a swordsman"
Anakin: " I thought I already did"
Obi-Wan: "Only in your mind, my very young apprentice"
What does the UltraSound board have to do with powering a Lux 3 red LED?
The LEDs, themselves, have a Forward Voltage of 2.95, not 4.8.
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Reds/ambers 2.9, greens, blues, cyans, etc 3.2-3.9v. The link you posted is what the US 2.5s minimum and maximum requirements for each LED type is. It has nothing at all to do with what it takes to power the LEDs.
Please make sure that you are familiar with a subject before you offer information to someone else.
Last edited by FenderBender; 11-30-2009 at 01:35 PM.
If you're new, please take the time we all consider just as precious as you and READ!
GET LATHED!
Official BMF and LORD OF THE STRINGS
I had the impression that the minumum voltage on a Lux 3 was 4.8v and I got that from this. Obviously not.
And yes I should know more before offering information, perhaps people should be more forthcoming rather than waiting for someone to say something incorrect before posting the correct information. Eh?
Obi-Wan: "If you spent as much time practicing your saber techniques as you did your wit, you'd rival Master Yoda as a swordsman"
Anakin: " I thought I already did"
Obi-Wan: "Only in your mind, my very young apprentice"
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