My first saber

[Xazato]

Hello everybody! My name is Charles, and I've been a Starwars fanboy for as long as I can remember; a sentiment that is quite common here I am sure. I have always longed to find a community such as this and possibly other LARP style groups that share my interest on a more active level. I'm a bit of a craftsman and always have been, so a saber seemed like the perfect project for me to work on. I can't even begin to count how many times I've pictured just the right lightsaber for me, and othersuch details. Anywho, onto the questions. Like I said I'm a light craftsman, but when it comes to saber building I am a self confessed noob for lack of a better term. I think I've got the basics nailed down from reading over the tutorials and other people's posts, but I wanted to post my plans for the saber before I lay down any money on it, just to be safe.

I wanted to build my first saber entirely out of MHS hilt pieces and other parts TCSS carries, and I may try to build a hardware saber once I get more familliar with the process and feel like venturing into the real creative stuff. Without further ado, here is the setup I got on the MHS creator. (also picture a style 6 MPS insert thrown in).



I figured I would save the double male connector to house a crystal chamber in the future, but until I work that out I'm going to be getting either a Seoul P4 in white, or the Luxeon V in Cyan. A 5 degree lens seemed the obvious choice, and of course I would have to get the appropriate lens holder.

As for power, I'm still undecided. Alot of what I have read seems to suggest the 700mA BuckPuck with the 6AA battery pack, but I am very open to suggestions. Besides that and a switch, what else would I need?

I'm pretty sure I've also decided on the 1" Corbin Battle Blade, but again I welcome any advice that could be offered. I suppose my main questions would be:

A, will I have enough room to house all my electronics with the parts I have chosen? The hilt length is 15.56 inches according to the creator, and to be honest I'm not sure how much space the electronics take.

B, will I have enough room to incorporate an illuminated crystal chamber in the double male connector in the future? or a sound system?

C, are the parts compatible? Would I need anything else to accomplish my goals? And, on the same note, would you recommend a Seoul P4 over a Luxeon V? Or vice versa? Like I said earlier, I foresee either getting a white or cyan blade.

Sorry for all the questions, I just wanted to get the best information available before spending any money on the saber. Please enlighten me with your collective wisdom I look forward to posting pictures of the finished product and contributing more to the forums when I am more well-versed.

I also apologize for the unnecessarily lengthy post. Even my own eyes are burning after re-reading it.

Xazato

[Obi-Dar Ke-Gnomie]

First, let me say welcome! This is the greatest and most addictive hobby in the universe. I hope you'll come to love it.

Second, let me congratulate you on doing your homework. It's nice to see people who do their own legwork.

Now, about the saber.

In my opinion, the Lux V is not the best choice for you. The extra brightness isn't worth the extra space taken up by the 6AAs. The 6AA pack is over 6" long. Trying to fit that into a 7" hilt section with room for the buckpuck and switch isn't going to work. If you were using LiIon batteries, you could do it, but for your first build, KISS.

If I was building that saber, I would use the 4AA pack, and the Lux III cyan or white P4. Yeah, the Lux V cyan is brighter, but the Lux III is still plenty bright. This is just my opinion, and others may disagree. If you are using the Lux III or the P4, use the 1A puck. This should still leave you with enough space for future additions like crystal workings.

When it comes to the blade, you have to decide whether the saber will be used for heavy dueling, or mostly for show. The thin wall blades light up a little better, but won't stand up to a lot of heavy dueling. (They will take some light dueling, as long as it is thin vs. thin blade.) The thick wall blades are darn near indestructible, but are twice as heavy. I have both thick and thin, and switch back and forth, depending on what I'm doing.

I hope that helps you out. Good luck, and don't forget to post pictures.

[Invisas1979]

Hi Xazato, welcome to the forum. I hope you'll enjoy your saber builing time here.

Obi mentioned power and light but only touched on sound. Depending on what sound board you can get your hands on can greatly impact the amount of space and power you will have or need.

For example, were you to gut a MR replica for the sound board you'll find they take up about 2.5 inchs in length and fill the 1.5inc diameter of a mhs main body. They can handle around 5-6 volts of power, so a 4aaa pack would work nicely with it and will still power a lux 3. The 4aaa will also take up 2.5-3 inches in length. Then you have the switch, which, if you use the mainbody in your pic, you will be hard pressed to get a sound board in the main hilt section, it will need to go in the extension, so you wont then be able to have a crystal chamber. Or the power to run it all at the same time.

but it's not all doom and gloom.

Were you to get a Ultrasound of even a CF board you'll find they'll handle 7 volts which means you can get 2 trustfire 3.5v batteries and mount either of the boards paralelle. This will give you the space to have the Crystal chamber and the power to run it all.

However they are hard to come by.....

[Jedi-Loreen]

Oh, but you can power LEDs for a crystal chamber off an FX board (we shouldn't call them MRs anymore, now that Hasbro is making them ). LDM does it all the time.

[cardcollector]

Hey, welcome to the best forum in the galaxy.

I would reccomend two things regarding your electronics...
firstly- go with a Lux III. It will be easier to fit your someday chrystal chamber and accent LED.

Secondly: It is relatively easy to wire in a Hasbro sound board. The 1999 Qui-gonn sound font is especially nide for being a hasbro. You should try it.

Can't wait to see it become a reality!

[Jedi Guardian]

Be careful though. I read somewhere on here that a '99 Qui-gonn could take a 4 aaa push, but I totally fried mine. In all reality it was almost certainly "noob" error and not an indication of the true ability of the board. All this being said, I submit to you again, BE CAREFUL.

[galen marek]

hi, welcome to the forum . if its fer show dont get yourself a corbin blade, use the tcss blade. use the suggested qui gon sound board, it works a treat. if you go with lux III, which i strongly sudgest for a first saber, get a 1000MA buckpuck. or if you want a lux v you probably wont get sound in there without having a special made battery container to hold the soundboard, and even then you still wouldnt fit the crystal chamber.

[Invisas1979]

[QUOTE=Jedi-Loreen;142347]Oh, but you can power LEDs for a crystal chamber off an FX board (we shouldn't call them MRs anymore, now that Hasbro is making them ). LDM does it all the time.[/QUOTE

Does what all the time, call them MRs......

[cardcollector]

Be careful though. I read somewhere on here that a '99 Qui-gonn could take a 4 aaa push, but I totally fried mine. In all reality it was almost certainly "noob" error and not an indication of the true ability of the board. All this being said, I submit to you again, BE CAREFUL.

Good catch!
Yeah don't give it any more than 4.5 volts or... "Abrakadabra" Poof magic smoke!

[dgdve]

Welcome and enjoy.. that said you total length is good most of the sabers are between 9-13" in length(ones ive built i mean) but you must do what feels the best.. ive found the longer hilts are difficult to spin when dueling but, without the soundboard, running lux3(dont bother with 6 battery set up) you going to need ALOT of "filler" to keep things from rattling around in there.. something i would like to note is to build your saber for its intended usage.. some guys duel all day long and these builders tend to use cages to keep thing overly secure. but that same care isnt needed if your building your saber for light dueling and 85-90% display.. also see my thread on crystal chambers but one thing to note is a crystal chamber needs a way of securing it within the saber itself(meaning you need to build a cage somewhat).. but good luck and remember **"Measure thrice(not twice), Cut once", "DONT EVER RUSH", "yes you can put a screw in with a hammer, but a screwdriver is much easier" so if you dont have the tool wait/watch/borrow/buy it**, and whatever problems you have someone here HAS the solution.. patience is a virtue of the greatest of us all.. whatever you decide know you will be very proud once you actually complete the test of any true jedi or sith apprentice.. building your first saber
~dave

P.S. remember rule #2 above "DONT RUSH"