616 Joe Jedi Board Layout, please confirm.

[Darth Abominor]

Afternoon all. I am taking apart my recently purchased Joe Jedi/616 Sound Board and wanted to be totally sure I have the wiring down correctly and thus avoid any 'oops' moments down the road. I think my Power End Cap wires are marked correctly, since I assume normally with an MR that Red is Main+, Black is Main-, and Purple is 'other'/Speaker+.

Front side of board:


Back side of board:


Given what I have shown above, I understand the 'issues' this board has with power feeding into the system after an attempted shut down, be it with Pucks or Resists on the LED and Battery lines, so any suggestions of how this can be best avoided, or even helpful chats about the suject are most welcome. The post at: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ead.php?t=5189 has been very useful, but I wanted to see if anyone having worked with these boards in the recent past has found ways to avoid the 'hit & miss' wiring.

Thanks folks.

[Zook]

Afternoon all. I am taking apart my recently purchased Joe Jedi/616 Sound Board and wanted to be totally sure I have the wiring down correctly and thus avoid any 'oops' moments down the road. I think my Power End Cap wires are mismarked, since I assume normally with an MR that Red is +, Black is -, and Purple is 'other'.



Given what I have shown above, I understand the 'issues' this board has with power feeding into the system after an attempted shut down, be it with Pucks or Resists on the LED and Battery lines, so any suggestions of how this can be best avoided, or even helpful chats about the suject are most welcome. The post at: http://forums.thecustomsabershop.com...ead.php?t=5189 has been very useful, but I wanted to see if anyone having worked with these boards in the recent past has found ways to avoid the 'hit & miss' wiring.

Thanks folks.

no thats not right.

The red is the main + the black is the main - and the brown is one of the speaker connections (the other goes to +).

[Darth Abominor]

So I was right in rethinking it as Red+, Black-, Purple+(speaker). TY. Now to be sure the Clash +/- is correct and I can start trying to wire this thing without going mad from diode issues.

[Zook]

So I was right in rethinking it as Red+, Black-, Purple+(speaker). TY. Now to be sure the Clash +/- is correct and I can start trying to wire this thing without going mad from diode issues.

sorry the purple looked brown to me in the pic. It is the speaker - wire. The speaker + wire goes to the battery (though some have said it doesnt matter in such a small speaker putting out the sounds the saber does).

The clash doesnt matter which is + or _. its just a switch that connects the two sides.

[Darth Abominor]

Ahhh.. it is indeed the Speaker- then, thought it seemed out of place slightly. So Speaker+ patched through the battery line as expected abd then Purple to -. Got it now. TY Now with 'any' wires for the clash and all other areas easily marked on the board, this should be... ready, here it comes...

EASIER.

There, I said the most vile word in saber buildingdom. Now watch it explode into a pillar of screaming skull fire on first powerup.

[Thaxos]

Ahhh.. it is indeed the Speaker- then, thought it seemed out of place slightly. So Speaker+ patched through the battery line as expected abd then Purple to -. Got it now. TY Now with 'any' wires for the clash and all other areas easily marked on the board, this should be... ready, here it comes...

EASIER.

There, I said the most vile word in saber buildingdom. Now watch it explode into a pillar of screaming skull fire on first powerup.

Well I sure hope it doesn't explode into a pillar of screaming skull fire... But just in case, you'd best film it so I can watch!

[Invisas1979]

So what are you going to do about switching it on and off, will you use the existing bits or add a new switch?

[Darth Abominor]

It seems a standard TCSS DPDT latching switch would be the right way to go for now, as the original switch is a recessed latching that I just don't feel like building a cover for at the moment... unless someone has any suggestion as how you get both sound and LED to power on a single circuit without running the Lux3 directly from the sound board.

[Invisas1979]

It seems a standard TCSS DPDT latching switch would be the right way to go for now, as the original switch is a recessed latching that I just don't feel like building a cover for at the moment... unless someone has any suggestion as how you get both sound and LED to power on a single circuit without running the Lux3 directly from the sound board.

Yeah this is what I was thinking. Do you know if an AV led latching will work on one of these boards?

[Arm on Fire]

Any DPDT switch will work, as long as it is latching.

Keep it simple, Lots of people have tried various methods to use this board and to modify this setup with mixed results and a lot of fried boards.

The whole key to using this board in the simplest way is to isolate the driver (puck,resistor,corbin driver,...whatever) from the board and use the board just for the sound. They can share the same power supply (6V or less) but the rest of the circuit needs to be isolated to work in this configuration, hence the diodes, they prevent a "backflow signal" of sorts.